British roots are the subterranean underdogs of the vegetable world. Bountiful, seasonal and economical, the likes of turnips, beets, parsnips, swedes and celeriac can seem dowdy, but the way you cook them doesn’t have to be. Pair them with spices or rich ingredients like cream and cheese and you’ll find they are rewarding and dependable – full of sweet, deep and surprising flavours. They’re versatile too; pickle, roast or fry them or add to curries, casseroles and stews. They’ll see you through the leaner times when there isn’t much else sprouting from the ground.
Kashmiri lamb and turnip curry (pictured top)
A warming curry for when there is rain, wind and fallen leaves. The turnips soak up the spices as they cook, providing a sweet, uncomplicated pleasure.
Prep 15 min
Salt 1 hr
Cook 2 hr 10 min
Serves 6
500g medium turnips, peeled and quartered
Sea salt, to taste
4 tbsp ghee
1 cinnamon stick
1 bay leaf
2 black cardamom pods, bashed but left whole
8 green cardamom pods, bashed but left whole
2 red onions, finely chopped
5 garlic cloves, finely chopped
1 tbsp freshly grated ginger
2 tsp red kashmiri chilli powder
1 tsp turmeric
1 heaped tsp ground fennel seeds
1 heaped tsp ground ginger
1kg lamb shoulder, cut into bite-sized chunks
200g pureed tinned tomatoes or passata
Put the turnips in a colander, sprinkle over a teaspoon of salt and massage them well. Leave them for an hour, then wash and dry them thoroughly.
Heat half the ghee in a large saucepan or cast-iron casserole and fry the turnips until they are golden brown all over. Drain on kitchen paper.
Add the remaining ghee to the pan, put it back over the heat and, once hot, add the cinnamon stick, bay leaf, black and green cardamom pods and, once fragrant, add the onions and lower the heat. Fry the onions for 15-25 minutes or until they are well caramelised and sticky, then add the garlic and ginger. Sauté till the both are cooked, then add the chilli powder, turmeric, fennel seeds, ground ginger and fry again for a further two minutes.
Now add the meat, stir well and cook for 10 minutes so it is sealed and covered in the spice paste. Pour in the pureed tomatoes and season well. Add 300ml water, cover and simmer over a low heat for 45 minutes. Next, add the turnips, cover and cook for about 20-25 minutes, until they and the meat are tender. Serve with rice or hot puffs of naan, chapatti or parathas.
Beetroot, cheese and walnut crumble
Crumble isn’t just for the sweet-toothed. This comforting bake is ideal as a side to a roast or as a light supper served with salad.
Prep 15 min
Cook 1 hr
Serves 4-6
1.2kg beetroot
Salt and pepper
250ml double cream
250ml crme fraiche
A few sprigs of thyme, picked
4 garlic cloves, bashed with the side of your knife
Zest of one lemon
A generous grating of nutmeg
For the crumble topping
40g rolled oats
100g plain flour
30g walnuts, roughly chopped
100g butter
30g mature cheddar
2 tbsp grated parmesan
2 tbsp finely chopped parsley, to serve
Cook the beetroot in a saucepan of boiling salted water for 20–30 minutes or until just tender, then drain and set aside. Once they are cool enough to handle, peel and cut into evenly sized large wedges and place in a 1.5 litre baking dish.
Heat the oven to 180C (160C fan)/350F/gas 4. In a saucepan, whisk the cream and crème fraiche together. Add the thyme and garlic cloves and infuse over a low heat until it comes to a simmer. Season well, then add the lemon zest and nutmeg and pour over the beetroot.
For the crumble, combine the oats, flour and walnuts in a bowl and then rub the butter through lightly using your fingertips so you have a coarse crumble. Mix in the cheeses, then scatter this mixture over the beetroot. Bake for 30 minutes until golden, crisp and bubbling and then sprinkle over parsley to serve.
