Kipper cream or fish in custard? A century of magazine recipes reveals how Britain’s seafood tastes have narrowed

Walk into a British supermarket and you will see prawns from south-east Asia, salmon from Norway, lobster from Canada and tuna from the Indian Ocean.

Seafood is among the most traded foods globally, yet around 80% of the seafood British consumers eat comes from just five species groups: cod, haddock, salmon, tuna and prawns.