After a series of high-profile residencies including TĀTĀ Eatery’s Tóu Sando bar and, long ago, the chef Adejoké Bakare’s Chishuru, next up above the Globe Tavern in Borough Market is Khao Bird, a Thai restaurant with a focus on the food of Chiang Mai in the north of the country.
Marking its first permanent London residency, the concept is the work of Brighton restaurateur Mike Palmer — known for Lucky Khao on the south coast — and head chef Luke Larsson, who underwent regular research trips to the open-air night markets of Thailand.
Its focus will be on northern Thai barbecue, regional specialities such as gai yang (marinated chicken) and khao soi (curry and noodles), and “playful takes” on street food snacks from Chiang Mai and surrounds.
Larsson visited acclaimed Thai restaurants such as Samuay & Sons, 100 Mahaseth and Bo.lan before creating the menu, and explored the capital of Bangkok to garner more inspiration. As per his publicity material, he sought out the best betel leaves, offal and live eels, and was particularly drawn to communal dining, where families and friends come together to share dishes.
“From my experience in Bangkok and northern Thailand, I’ve learnt the importance of respecting the authentic history of the food while also recognising that it’s about fun and bringing people together,” he said.
“At Khao Bird, our dishes honour the people who taught me, those who frankly know better than I do, while offering a glimpse into the guilty pleasure of blending the different cuisines and influences that shaped me, whether it’s laab or slow-cooked curries with local meats.
“I owe much of this to chef Chalee and chef Num [two well known chefs in Thailand], whose warmth and willingness to share knowledge have been formative in this.”
Khao Bird will use produce from Sussex, including from the Knepp Estate, a 3,500-acre rewilding project, and Shrub, which cultivates vegetables and herbs. There will also be an emphasis on Bermondsey, with local suppliers Kernel Beer, Ice Cream Union, and Bermondsey St Honey on the roster.
On the menu will be dishes such as corn ribs with laab sauce and coconut relish (£9), Sussex veg tom tam (£8), a Thai-style hot dog with pickles, phrik num jam and jaew relish (£11), and larger barbecue plates, curries and salads.
In charge of the wine is well-regarded sommelier Zeren Wilson, who has selected a list to pair with the hot and complex flavours found in Thai cooking. There will be cocktails, too, with Thai-inspired twists on classics, and imported lagers.
Palmer said: “Khao started as a series of pop-ups in Brighton, inspired by our time studying and working in Thailand. Our philosophy is simple: to blend the bold flavours and techniques of Thailand with the best local ingredients from in and around Brighton and in 2018 we opened our first permanent restaurant in Brighton's historic old post office.
“Now, with this exciting opportunity in Borough Market, we're diving into the unique cuisine of Chiang Mai. We've named the place Khao Bird as a nod to our love for the city’s famous barbecue chicken.
“The menu features Northern Thai classics, particularly the flavours that light up the City's night markets, with some playful twists that reflect our journey from Brighton to Bangkok.”
