What’s the trick to great coleslaw?
Chris, Paignton, Devon
“Coleslaw is such an under-rated salad,” says the Guardian’s Felicity Cloake, whose latest book, Peach Street to Lobster Lane, was published last week. “Familiarity breeds contempt.” (As do those claggy tubs you get in supermarkets.) The whole point of coleslaw is that the veg has to be crisp, which is why Cloake shreds rather than grates the cabbage (a mandoline or food processor is helpful here). “That will leave it less mushy. And, if you have the patience, shred the carrot, too.” Cloake tosses the two with salt, vinegar and a little sugar, then leaves the mix to sit: “This both softens and seasons it.” Then, once drained, bring on the mayo: “Don’t go overboard, though – it should be lightly dressed rather than gloopy.”
Conveniently, Jessica Prescott, author of Epic Salads: For Every Mood, Craving and Occasion, has been working on an essential coleslaw guide, and her dressing template goes like this: “Two tablespoons of something creamy [mayo, sour cream, yoghurt], a tablespoon of something acidic [lemon or lime juice, apple cider vinegar], and citrus zest, if you like. A spoonful of mustard, honey or soy sauce can deepen the flavour.”
