Hunting out cafes is probably the last thing one would expect to do on a trip to the magical land of Ladakh, where one expects to find restaurants serving fresh dim sums, steaming tingmos and cubes of yak cheese. But on a recent trip to Leh, I ended up on an interesting adventure hopping across quaint little cafes and brought back some wonderful memories.
Arriving in Ladakh, I was advised to take some rest to acclimatise myself to the cold weather and sparse oxygen. But after a short nap, I realised I was feeling just fine, and headed out to explore the local market to prepare myself for more arduous adventures the following day.
In a bid to try something local and refrain from indulging in the usual fare of cappuccinos and macchiatos that I generally love experimenting with at cafes, I hunted out a lovely little café right in the heart of Leh’s bustling market. Seeing my inquisitive eyes, the owner, who seemed to know exactly what each customer needed, told me she would get me a hot cup of the local kahwah, which I accepted without a second thought. I clearly needed something warm and nourishing to get me ready for the evening.
I first heard of kahwah, or kehwa, as it is called in Ladakh, in the movie Mission Kashmir. Since then, trying out a kahwah has been on my bucket list, but an ordinary cuppa wouldn’t do for me. I like to try things in their local environs to taste the authenticity.
And so, after years of having it on my bucket list, I finally lost myself in the cup of heavenly kehwa in Ladakh. As the rich concoction of saffron, cinnamon, cardamom, almonds, walnuts and honey warmed me, I decided to put my solitude to good use and picked up a book from the café’s small library. I lost track of time as I read some fascinating research about humans dietary patterns and natural ways to get rid of toxins from our bodies. Interestingly, all this talk about food made me thirsty for more kehwa, and before I knew it, I had downed three more cups before I realised that I needed some space in my tummy for a traditional Ladakhi dinner that my hosts were putting together.
All things local
Continuing with my adventures in Ladakh, I soon found myself in the beautiful Nubra Valley after an adventurous (and slightly dizzy) ride across the famous Khardung La. Since I arrived earlier than I had anticipated, I decided to explore the place on foot and went off in search of some local alcohol, hoping to find a theka that we Punjabis seem to have a knack of locating across the globe. But alas, owing to some local elections, all the local liquor vends were closed. Not one to be deterred, I decided to alter my plan and tried locating a café to make the walk worthwhile.
Some local people guided me towards a local, mythical café that seemed to be located near a stream, but after an hour’s search, neither stream nor café was to be found. But just when I had lost all hope, I discovered a quaint, newly opened café — that neither the locals nor Google knew of — built in the lovely Ladakhi style of architecture. Realising that this café too had a lovely little library, I picked up a copy of The Secret written by Rhonda Byrne over cups after cups of the café’s delightful cappuccino and some grilled sandwiches, which seemed to be better than any toddy after an hour-long walk across all of Nubra Valley in the biting cold.
I had a lovely time in Ladakh, thanks to its natural beauty and the friendly locals. But my fondest memories are from the two cafes I hopped into, where I got a chance to enjoy some me-time in the company of books. For good measure, I did continue my adventures after returning home by putting on some Ladakhi hymns, preparing myself a warm cup of kahwah, and finishing both the books I started in those lovely Ladakhi cafes.
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