For those who cook with the seasons, this is the bridge between summer and autumn. Many vegetables linger from the abundance of summer, while new things quietly arrive.
As dear to me as they are, it’s not just about porcini mushrooms and game. Sardines, for a example, come into their own, are easier to find and cheaper than ever. Wild fennel is in flower. You can find squash at the market and we fight to be first for new-season apples. These recipes reflect this moment.
