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Evening Standard
Evening Standard
National
Jimi Famurewa

Jimi Famurewa reviews Studio Frantzén: Even Sweden’s superstar chef can’t make Harrods feel like a dining destination

Technically impressive: “intricate and high-level” Studio Frantzén on Harrods’ fifth floor

(Picture: Press handout)

About halfway through my solo lunch at Studio Frantzén in Harrods, nosiness led me into laughable calamity. Snooping around its lavish rooftop, I put my hand on a door and felt its guillotine-sharp edge slice into my palm. Blood sprang forth, paper napkins were hurriedly administered, and there was much fuss in the soft-lit downstairs dining room as the gathered staff summoned a uniformed first aid officer to log the incident and assess.

If parts of this job can sometimes feel like rubbish spycraft (and, especially when I’m booking under a pseudonym, it really can) then this was my undoubted Johnny English moment.

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