It does slightly feel,” began my pal Chris, as we jointly surveyed the thrumming lunchtime scene in the windowless, tucked-away area of Socca where we’d been deposited, “like we’ve been walked all the way through to a completely different restaurant”.
He had a point. Peer into the site of this titanically splashy new Mayfair bistro from restaurateur Samyukta Nair and justly lauded Bibendum chef Claude Bosi and I daresay you’ll practically be slobbering on the glass with desire. Its showpiece main room is a swoonsome, light-flooded wonder of swishy half-curtains, snug booths in Mediterranean blue, cocktail shakers rattling behind the vintage mirror-backed bar, and twinkling, old French Riviera glamour.
