Firestarter: Facing Heaven
(Picture: Matt Writtle)When we talk of restaurants being a timewarp, we generally mean the sweeping romance of some bygone, pre-internet age; we mean red vinyl booths, glittering chandeliers and silver tankards of Black Velvet. But stepping into Facing Heaven, a new, expanded iteration of hit Hackney-based vegan Chinese Mao Chow, felt like journeying to a more recent place and time. A place and time that, if I had to specifically date it, I’d probably describe as “dangerously raucous east London house party circa 2009”.
On a recent Thursday, beneath kitsch, primary-coloured bulbs, ‘00s indie blared from the speakers to a crush of seated bodies. The toilets featured a beret-wearing shop mannequin, flashing disco lights and, bafflingly, a mislaid can of Nourishment drink. And then, early on in our meal, Facing Heaven’s chef-founder Julian Denis came by with complimentary shots of a home-brewed, paint-stripper version of the Chinese spirit baijiu. “It’s like we’re back in our old flat,” said Madeleine, referring to the pre-kids, New Cross two-bed where we essentially sacrificed our tenancy deposit in the name of continually gathering loads of people to smoke indoors, spill drinks and scream-rap along to Roots Manuva at 4am.
