Get all your news in one place.
100's of premium titles.
One app.
Start reading
Evening Standard
Evening Standard
National
Jimi Famurewa

Jimi Famurewa reviews Acme Fire Cult: The soul and spirit of a pyromaniacal Ottolenghi

Burn baby burn: Acme’s courtyard

(Picture: Daniel Hambury/Stella Pictures Ltd)

Ask someone to sketch out their hazy idea of east London dining and it might well look like Acme Fire Cult on a sunny day. Girded by repurposed shipping containers, this new, mostly outdoor barbecue spot is a little black-daubed, industrial oasis. A place of wafting woodsmoke, banked tables and leather-aproned, full-bearded men tending intently to a vast, multi-tiered grill.

But looks, in this instance, are a little deceiving. Because, though it presents as rustic, butch and familiar, Acme — which is a partnership between former St Leonards chefs Andrew Clarke and Daniel Watkins, plus 40ft Brewery co-founder Steve Ryan (who I should declare I know a bit) — is actually attempting something quite novel.

Sign up to read this article
Read news from 100's of titles, curated specifically for you.
Already a member? Sign in here
Related Stories
Top stories on inkl right now
One subscription that gives you access to news from hundreds of sites
Already a member? Sign in here
Our Picks
Fourteen days free
Download the app
One app. One membership.
100+ trusted global sources.