Jacuzzi, 94 Kensington High Street, London W8 4SJ (bigmammagroup.com). Starters £9-£28, large dishes £15.50-£45, desserts £8-£14, wines from £29
The word “Jacuzzi” conjures up opposing images. On the one hand there’s the Jacuzzi as warm, soothing bath; the place to ease away the stresses of the day in a flourish of bubbles and fizz. On the other, there’s Jacuzzi as festering breeding ground for every suppurating pathogen known to modern medicine, and a few that are not. Because I am cold and dead inside, I expected the restaurant Jacuzzi, on London’s Kensington High Street, to be the hospitality industry’s version of the latter. It turns out to be very much the former.
