Get all your news in one place.
100's of premium titles.
One app.
Start reading
The Guardian - UK
The Guardian - UK
Lifestyle
Grace Dent

‘It’s the great leveller, uniting people across social classes’: Grace Dent on Britain’s love affair with cheese

Portrait of Grace Dent about to bite into a bulging toasted cheese sandwich in front of paintings of cheese
Set design: Rhea Thierstein. Food stylist: Laurie Perry. Fashion stylist: Peter Bevan. Hair and makeup: Sarah Cherry using Trinnylondon. Dress, by Bernadette, from matchesfashion.com. Montgomery Cheddar courtesy of Paxton & Whitfield. Photograph: Martina Lang/The Guardian

Why does cheese feel like a cuddle? Well, it’s because it just does. It’s because an almost empty fridge containing a small slab of ageing cheddar harbours at least a glimmer of hope – and even if that cheddar has a tiny speck of mould, you can just scrape it off and turn a blind eye (I won’t tell anyone). Find that toasty loaf you’ve got for emergencies in the bottom drawer of the fridge, add a dollop of something runny like brown sauce or some sort of chutney, and there you go: now you have dinner.

Cheese, in all its salty, fatty majesty, could well be the king of comfort foods. We have all at some point found ourselves standing in the light of the chiller cabinet, scooping grated red leicester from the bag, head back, mouth open, pushing those slivers of loveliness down our throats and somehow feeling instantly better. And, in the same vein, after a hard day we have all leaned on that slightly fearsome chunk of apricot-laced wensleydale that we panic-bought before Christmas before promptly forgetting about it – now, doesn’t it taste good on cream crackers with a big cup of tea and EastEnders? Suddenly, your overdue car MOT seems marginally less upsetting.

Sign up to read this article
Read news from 100's of titles, curated specifically for you.
Already a member? Sign in here
Related Stories
Top stories on inkl right now
One subscription that gives you access to news from hundreds of sites
Already a member? Sign in here
Our Picks
Fourteen days free
Download the app
One app. One membership.
100+ trusted global sources.