One of the world’s most celebrated make-up artists, Isamaya Ffrench has spent the past decade — of which she was in her 20s for more than half — collaborating with a vast and varied array of the fashion (and music) industry’s finest, from Steven Klein to Sølve Sundsbø, Mert and Marcus, Madonna, Cher and Rihanna.
Credited with creating some of modern history’s most arresting beauty looks, Ffrench has been resolute in her ambition to challenge the status quo, championing self-expression with her often subversive and always directional make-up design.
The embodiment of these values, her eponymous collection called Isamaya launches at the end of June after a two-year development shrouded in secrecy. With a schedule comparable to that of a fashion label, the genderless, boundary-pushing brand will launch a few drops annually, all limited-edition and each existing in its own visual world.
The first such collection, ‘Industrial’ takes inspiration from underground Berlin; edgy techno, latex against concrete, cold metal piercings and black leather. ‘I want to pay homage to subcultures excluded from mainstream media and cater to an audience who loves great products as much as unique packaging,’ Ffrench tells us.
A 14-pan eyeshadow palette is stuffed with multi-textured metallics, pearls, putty and glitter finishes clearly curated with experimentation in mind. There’s an inky Rubberlash mascara that stretches, curls and stimulates lash growth, a glass-effect skin serum and a high-shine brow laminator, while a berry lip treatment deepens and enhances the tone of the mouths that wear it.
‘It’s important to me not to claim to own a sort of beauty ideal for customers to replicate,’ Ffrench explains. ‘I want to give people the tools to discover what that ideal means for themselves. We are not linear beings. In a word, [I want people] to rediscover who they are and take pride and confidence in that. Being yourself is the only truth.’
Isamaya launches at the end of June. Visit the Isamaya pop-up, 1-3 July, 15 Bateman Street, W1 (isamaya.com)
Isamaya Industrial Colour Pigments Eyeshadow Palette, £95; Industrial earrings 3, £100 (isamaya.com)
GLASS SKIN
‘This triple weight hyaluronic serum is the key to flawless, glowing skin,’ says Isamaya Ffrench. ‘Use it as a base or as a highlighter. Alternatively, do as I did here and mix it with your day cream or foundation to give the whole face a glass-like finish.’
Isamaya Industrial Skinlacq Triple Hyaluronic Glow Serum, £60 (isamaya.com)
ELASTIC LASH
‘Designed to deliver the most intense colour, curl and length, my mascara has great texture and pigments so you can apply several coats, but also contains hair growth ingredients so that a single layer will act like a great skincare prep in your routine.’
Isamaya Industrial Rubberlash Latex Lift Mascara, £35 (isamaya.com)
VEILED LIPS
‘With lip-plumping botanicals such as ginger root, cayenne and coffee to boost micro circulation, my lip serum provides an instant plumping effect, while its dark berry veil deepens the natural colour of your mouth. Layer it up until you’re satisfied with the colour.’
Isamaya Industrial Liplacq Maximising Lip Serum, £32 (isamaya.com)
LAMINATE BROWS
‘No matter how you like to style and shape your eyebrows, you will want them to hold in place, which is where my long-lasting gel steps in. Make the most of the fine tooth comb to coat the hairs thoroughly and use its flat back to press them down for a laminated effect that lasts all day and night.’
Isamaya Industrial Browlacq Brow Laminator, £30 (isamaya.com)
Photographs by AIDAN ZAMIRI
Make-up: Isamaya Ffrench at Streeters using Isamaya. Make-up assistant: Tash Sultana. Hair: Claire Moore using Olaplex. Manicurist: Kelly Shenton. Executive producer: Tom Burns. Producer: Smera Kumar. Photo assistant: Joshua Hippolyte. Digi-op: Connor Egan