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The road to Highland Base at Kerlingarfjöll can be smooth – a two hour glide from Iceland’s capital Reykjavik. Or it can be rutted, with potholes formed from ice and take seven hours of lurching, sliding, reversing – tyres on the truck sent to collect you (think a luxury minibus meets Hummer with tractor tires, blacked out windows and a system that deflates or inflates the tires to adjust to the aforementioned potholes), groaning and grinding as they work over the lumpen road.