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The Guardian - UK
The Guardian - UK
World
Hannah Ellis-Petersen in Delhi

Is it the end of the line for one of India’s most distinctive garments?

Indian Railways staff wearing bandhgala jackets stand in front of a train
The bandhgala became part of the Indian Railways uniform in the late 19th century Photograph: Danita Delimont/Alamy

It is one India’s most ubiquitous garments, with origins in the grand Mughal courts and Rajasthani kingdoms of times past, and still widely favoured by sharply dressed grooms at wedding receptions.

But this week, the distinctive high-collared bandhgala jacket – known to many as the “princely jacket” in a nod to its royal origins – found itself at the centre of a lively debate after it was denounced by the Indian railways minister as a symbol of a “colonial mindset”.

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