London Fashion Week's spring/summer 2027 season, running September 17 through 21, has centered on two major homecomings for British fashion: Alexander McQueen's return to the official London schedule after 25 years away, and Christopher Kane's debut as creative director of Mulberry, marking that house's first runway show in six years.
McQueen closed out Sunday's calendar with an 8 p.m. show inside the Undercroft of Lincoln's Inn Chapel, the label's first London presentation since creative director Seán McGirr took over in 2023 and its first appearance on the city's official schedule since the brand shifted its runway calendar to Paris more than two decades ago. The front row drew Emilia Clarke, Emma Corrin, Salma Hayek, Florence Welch, Alexa Chung and The Summer I Turned Pretty star Lola Tung, whose attendance is covered in more detail in a separate FashionTimes piece. Earlier that same afternoon, at 3 p.m., Mulberry staged its own comeback at the Queen Elizabeth II Centre with "Mulberry by Christopher Kane," the designer's first collection since his eponymous label entered administration in 2023. Kane, who continues to work alongside his sister and longtime collaborator Tammy Kane, built the show around the brand's mulberry-tree symbol, sending out axe-shaped handbags, an oversized take on the archival Piccadilly bag in mock croc, and shoes finished with the house's signature Postman's Lock hardware. He described heritage as "a foundation, not a limitation" and was met with a standing ovation. The collection arrives in stores and online in January 2027.
📸 | Leigh-Anne (@LeighAnneMusic) attends the Di Petsa SS27 show at London Fashion Week! ✨ pic.twitter.com/pDTLB55sn4
— Leigh-Anne Updates (@LADailyUpdates) September 21, 2026
Those two moments anchor a week the British Fashion Council has framed as a statement about London's standing among the "big four" fashion capitals, alongside a five-day schedule of 47 catwalk shows spanning established names like Burberry, Simone Rocha and Erdem and a strong emerging-designer program that includes this season's BFC NEWGEN recipients and returning Fashion East label. Marks & Spencer also staged its first-ever London Fashion Week show on September 18 as part of its 100th-anniversary celebrations, while H&M's Olympia London presentation drew a runway cast that included Lila Moss, Alex Consani and Paloma Elsesser.
BFC chief executive Laura Weir has been vocal about the significance of the McQueen and Mulberry returns specifically, calling McQueen's homecoming "a statement of confidence in British creativity at its most fearless and distinctive" and describing her push to bring both houses back to London as one of her earliest priorities in the role. For McQueen, the London stop also comes as the Kering-owned house restructures under new chief executive Gianfranco D'Attis, including a planned relocation of its Old Bond Street flagship later this year. For Mulberry, the show follows a fiscal year in which total sales climbed 5.7 percent at constant currency, giving Kane's debut real commercial stakes on top of its creative ones.
London Fashion Week's spring/summer 2027 season is scheduled to close Monday evening with Burberry's 7 p.m. show under creative director Daniel Lee, the traditional final appointment on the official calendar before the international fashion circuit moves on to Milan later this week. Between the McQueen and Mulberry comebacks and a front row that has already included some of film, music and television's most photographed faces, this season has given London a rare run of headline-grabbing moments to match the other three fashion capitals.
