The road does not prepare you
The last stretch into Koraput comes through hills that fold into each other like something breathing. There are no billboards. The trees are sal and teak, and the light through them is the particular green that exists only in places where the canopy has not been interrupted in decades. By the time you reach the town, you have already understood that the usual vocabulary of Indian tourism, heritage, experience, getaway, does not quite fit what this place is.