"A pony!” I squealed, as I watched it gallop off over the heathland. For 2,000 years wild ponies have been hanging around the New Forest in Hampshire and I was thrilled to see my first one as we drove through the ancient woodland to our weekend away in Brockenhurst.
A staple of the scenery, the 5,000-strong herd roam freely around the 219 square mile national park and are owned by the New Forest commoners who have the right to graze their ponies and cattle on the open forest. Their grass-nibbling helps with the upkeep of the place.
Pulling into the village, we knew we were in for some idyllic country living, with thatched cottages, traditional old pubs and posh independent shops to potter around.
We were staying for two nights at the four-star Balmer Lawn Hotel. The 19th-century building was a former coach house and hunting lodge and the grounds appear in early documents related to William the Conqueror. Over the centuries it has hosted kings, queens and Winston Churchill.
Today, the luxury hotel offers a zen-like spa, a two-AA Rosette restaurant and is surrounded by peaceful woodland. After a warm and friendly greeting at reception, we headed up to our room – number 34 – a superking with balcony and views over Balmer Lawn, where cricket matches are held during the summer, and out across trees and heathland.
Light poured in from the double windows, its centrepiece the seven-foot bed styled in slate grey and crimson.
A coffee from the Nespresso machine and complimentary chocolates while taking in the location was a lovely way to settle in.
If you want to really get into relaxing mode, visit the hotel’s Saltus Spa which has six treatment rooms, including one for couples, or make use of the leisure facilities. There’s an indoor swimming pool, Jacuzzi and a Finnish sauna.
In spring and summer guests can also enjoy the heated outdoor pool and the forest footpaths are on the doorstep.
We had dinner at the hotel’s award-winning Beresfords restaurant, which guests enter through a flower-blossom archway.
The smart and knowledgeable waiting staff swiftly delivered our little amuse bouches – the Beresford’s Bites, an explosion of flavour with sweet chilli prawns, southern-fried halloumi and black pudding croquettes (£7 each). Then it was on to starters of perfectly cooked pan-fried seabass with pommes Anna, relish, anchovy sauce and caviar (£15).
My partner Rob chose the New Forest venison haunch (£28), with butternut squash fondant, red cabbage, celeriac puree and creamed mash, a beautifully prepared and balanced dish.
I plumped for the sirloin beef (£32) with caramelised shallot veloute, watercress chimichurri, hazelnuts, rocket and skin-on fries – simply delicious. We just couldn’t get enough so ordered the red velvet fondant with cream cheese ice cream (£11.50) and traditional treacle tart with rhubarb sorbet, poached rhubarb and walnut crumbs (£11.50), a decadent way to finish off an enjoyable feast.
Retiring for a drink in the lounge, we plonked ourselves on leather couches in front of the fire for a while, then enjoyed a restful night’s sleep in our quiet bedroom.
Breakfast is another lavish affair if you want it to be. Go continental with pastries, yogurt, fruit, ham, cheeses, or indulge in a full English.
We’d booked an electric bike ride through the forest that morning and met Clare Dark and Lisa Morgan, owners of Jaunt-E Bikes, who dropped the bikes off at the hotel and explained how to use them. Retro-style with chunky tyres, they have five levels of pedal-assist, perfect to save you from sweating up any pesky hills.
We chose a non-road route and rode for two hours, passing ponies, cows and their calves as we took in the beauty of the forest.
Suitably energised, we decided to get some sea air and visited Lymington, the colourful coastal town with an ancient seaport and a rich maritime history for a nosey around the market and look at the fishing boats.
That evening we headed out to The Trusty Servant, a country inn at Minstead, which serves locally sourced homemade food and local ales inside inviting rooms.
Starters of duck and orange parfait, with a toasted bloomer and spiced red onion chutney (£8.99), and New Forest wild mushrooms in a garlic and cream sauce on granary toast (£9.50), were both delightful.
We both chose the rich slow-cooked venison ragu, with pappardelle pasta topped with rocket and aged Parmesan (£18.99). Portion sizes were generous and it was loaded with venison. To finish we shared the cheesecake of the day – Baileys – a brilliant use of the creamy tipple. Then we simply enjoyed the warm atmosphere of the pub, drinking pints and chatting the night away.
With scrummy food and a fabulous place to stay, green surroundings and a seaside visit, what a wonderful weekend we’d had in the New Forest – it really did feel like wild horses would have to drag us away.
Book the holiday
Rooms at the Balmer Lawn Hotel in Brockenhurst, New Forest, start at £165, B&B. Dogs £25 with water bowl, food bowl, bed, towel. Find out more at balmerlawnhotel.com.
Jaunt-E bikes £35 half day/£55 full day. Find out more at jaunt-ebikes.co.uk.
You can also get more information at thenewforest.co.uk.
