When it comes to brunch, I’m usually in a south Indian groove. If the family and I are heading out, I like to go to Saravanaa Bhavan in East Ham, London, buy a round of dosa and wash them down with mango lassi. We sit knee to knee with other families, the women usually with fresh jasmine in their hair from visiting the temple. At home, however, I make a simpler favourite, this semiya upma, which has got all the south Indian flavours I love – curry leaves, ginger and zingy green chillies – all gently diffused by the pasta.
Angel hair spaghetti upma
Upma is typically made with vermicelli, but it can vary, so I’ve used angel hair spaghetti, or capelli d’angelo, instead, because it’s easier to find. Fresh curry leaves can be bought in major supermarkets, south Asian grocery stores and online; freeze any you don’t use for another time. You’ll need a wide pan with a lid.
Prep 10 min
Cook 30 min
Serves 4
350g angel hair spaghetti, AKA capelli d’angelo
4 tbsp rapeseed oil
1 tsp black mustard seeds
1 tsp cumin seeds
10 fresh curry leaves
1 brown onion, peeled and finely chopped
1¼ tsp fine sea salt
2cm x 2cm piece fresh ginger, peeled and grated
2 green finger chillies, finely diced
¾ tsp ground turmeric
750ml vegetable stock, suitable for vegans
300g frozen mixed vegetables
20g coriander, chopped
1 lemon, cut in half, one half juiced, to get 1½ tbsp, the other half cut into wedges
Break all the spaghetti in half into a bowl, then break each half in half again and leave in the bowl until needed.
Put the oil in a wide frying pan for which you have a tight-fitting lid, and set it over a medium heat. When the oil is shimmering, and not before, add the mustard seeds, cumin seeds and curry leaves, which should all immediately crackle and pop.
Stir in the onion and salt, and cook, stirring regularly, for 10 minutes, until the onions are soft and have browning edges. Add the ginger and chillies, stir to mix and cook for two minutes.
Add the turmeric, stir again, then add the stock, pasta and mixed vegetables. Stir again, if you can, or else pop the lid on for a minute, until the pasta softens, then stir to mix well and ensure the pasta doesn’t clump. Pop on the lid, then leave to cook for another five minutes, until the spaghetti is cooked and the liquid has reduced almost completely.
Stir through the coriander and lemon juice, then distribute between plates and serve with the lemon wedges on the side.
