Finland might be a famously neutral nation, but beneath the surface is a country scarred by painful memories of war, and a fear of history repeating itself.
"This area has been under rule from Russia and Sweden … so we know conflict," says Anne Sorsa-Vainikka, a war-history tour guide based near Lappeenranta, close to the Russian border.
"When we got our independence, then we knew we needed our own army."
