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The Guardian - UK
The Guardian - UK
Travel
Lea Page

I walked 1,000 miles alone through Europe – and learned that fear is the price of freedom

Lea Page climbing steep path
Lea Page on the last climb toward Monteriggioni, Tuscany. Photograph: Lea Page

The path, more of a faint depression in the field I had just crossed, disappeared into a wood: yes, I could see an opening in the vegetation. The day before, I had left the official walking route of the Via Francigena, an ancient pilgrimate route from Canterbury to Rome, to stay at a B&B that was highly rated and affordable. Early next morning, after stuffing my pockets with the breakfast my hostess had set out for me, I cracked open the massive gate in the wall surrounding the little country compound and sneaked through.

The village was quiet. Not even roosters were up as I found my stride on a dirt path that would, according to Google, take me back to the route. All I had to do was follow the track that cut south through a forest that showed on the map as a fairly small green blob between me and my destination. No problem.

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