For the intrepid explorer, sometimes the lure of a destination lies in the challenge of the journey. For adventurers who aren't faint of heart and make the pilgrimage to far-flung destinations such as Machu Pichu or trek the Camino de Santiago, the satisfaction of the voyage is often its own reward, and the stunning sights at the endpoint are just the icing on the cake.
As I headed out to Pilning railway station early one midwinter morning, I wondered if I would be treated to a similar feeling of fulfilment once I eventually arrived. After all, the terminus, which lies in Severnside and is the last stop before heading over the estuary to Wales, is no picnic to reach as it has Bristol's least frequent stopping service, with just two departures every week.
Not only are there currently only two trains on Saturdays at 08:33 and 15:32, but they are both only in the eastbound direction because although it has two platforms, in 2016, its footbridge was demolished as part of the Great Western Electrification Programme, leaving passengers unable to access the now defunct platform 2.
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The original Pilning station was built in 1886 and boasted three signal boxes, which by 1903 meant it was staffed by 30 people, including a stationmaster, fourteen signalmen and a tunnel inspector. Arriving on a weekday in 2023, the contrast is stark.
The track that leads off the quiet country road looks devoid of all human life, except maybe fly-tippers, and the station is initially entirely out of view as you begin the walk up what appears to be a disused trade yard. There are indications of a deserted construction site with portaloos at one end, while skips and a horse box occupy an area closer to the boarded-up station. There's an eerie sense of mildly post-apocalyptic abandonment to the whole place.
And yet there are signs of life; on a raised concrete platform, someone has recently parked their car, from which vantage you can take in a view of the vandalised phone box in the foreground and the Amazon warehouse in the distance. Near the gate to the platform is a collection of garden ornaments, and at one point during my brief visit, a small Jack Russel bounds out of the neighbouring hedge before disappearing again.
There's no departure board, no clock, and certainly no ticket booth, only a remote help point and a small covered waiting area. A notice about strike action is helpfully posted near the entrance.
Not long after arriving, I'm treated to a passing train; there are several every day, but of course, it doesn't stop, and even if it did, I wouldn't be able to get on because there's no way to access the abandoned platform 2 safely.
Local Parish councillor and chair of the Pilning station group Olga Taylor likes to point out: "Pilning footbridge was the only railway bridge, which came down during the electrification process, and was not replaced. Everything else was replaced all the way from London to Cardiff."
Olga is passionate about keeping Pilning station alive and in the consciousness of local authorities, lawmakers and train operators. The Pilning station group runs a very active Twitter account and website offering a wealth of regularly updated information and news, opening to a landing page proclaiming, 'Welcome to Pilning – the station that refuses to die!'
The site offers suggestions of day trips possible if using the station and even travel challenges. There's a live departure board and details about passing trains, as well as local information and directions to the nearby Plough Inn, which would undoubtedly be a more pleasant place to wait for your next train.
Hearing Olga speak about days out possible by getting a train at Pilning station and reframing the jeopardy of potentially not being able to get home as an exciting bonus, she could almost be a spokesperson for GWR.
However, Olga and the Pilning station group are unhappy with the service level GWR currently provides Pilning. She said: “Residents of Pilning and the surrounding villages have appealed on numerous occasions for modest service improvements – a lunchtime service and one on summer evenings to allow people to have a full day out – but train operators GWR flatly refuse to do this.
"The latest station usage figures prove that there is a real market here and potential for further growth – we hope they will persuade GWR to reconsider and to adopt a less negative attitude. How many more people would use Pilning station if more trains stopped there – and if it had a proper service in both directions again."
The data Olga is referring to are official figures from the office of rail and road, which show that entries and exits at the station have increased dramatically since the footbridge was removed. This is particularly striking given that Pilning lies at the edge of the Severenside area, dubbed a "transport desert" by locals.
The Severnside 30-year masterplan was released last year by South Gloucestershire council and explored ways to improve links in the area in the coming decades, including "station improvements" at Pilning laid out as an overbridge, improved waiting facilities and rail services.
But this is a "vision for change" rather than a commitment, and Olga said: "Considering the recent introduction of the Bristol Clean Air Zone, it is now more important than ever to give the residents of Bristol's North fringe the ability to travel to the city centre in a sustainable way."
She encourages those who wish to support the campaign to pay a visit and catch one of the Saturday trains to one of the destinations on offer. She adds: "This is your invitation to a Pilning Adventure. Where will it take you?"
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