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The Canberra Times
The Canberra Times
Lucy Arundell

'I'm so proud': End of an era for beloved Ethiopian restaurant

A beloved Canberran restaurant is closing its doors after introducing the capital to Ethiopian cuisine more than 30 years ago.

Fekerte's Ethiopian is shutting up shop as its namesake moves into her next stage of life.

Chef and owner Fekerte Tesfaye said she's "very sad" to be turning off the stove for the last time.

"I am almost depressed, it's been my identity throughout my life in Australia," she said.

Fekerte Tesfaye has been serving Ethiopian food to Canberrans for 30 years. Picture by Gary Ramage

"There's an end to everything so it has to end, but I will miss everyone a lot."

Her customers have been shocked and saddened by her announcement, Ms Tesfaye said, with many of them eating her food since they were little kids.

"My customers have come from the markets to the festivals, to where I am now, they've just followed me," she said.

"Kids that were born have now grown up and come to my store."

Trailblazer in the Canberra food scene

Ms Tesfaye was one of the first Ethiopian chefs in Canberra, starting her career running a stall at markets across the capital.

She and her husband moved to Australia in 1985, and while her husband was studying for his PhD, she was at home experimenting with the new cuisines.

Not many people knew what Ethiopian cuisine was when Ms Tesfaye began cooking in Canberra, and many didn't even know where Ethiopia was, she said.

Ms Tesfaye's daughter, Tigest Sendaba, said her mum's cooking has always been about more than food.

She said the restaurant has been a crucial link to culture for her and her sister, and also pathway for connection in the local community.

"People really get to know a lot about Ethiopia from the food, and because the food has been so enjoyed, people have been really open to Ethiopian culture," she said.

Fekerte Tesfaye, left, and her daughter Tigest Sendaba at Fertake's Ethiopian. Picture by Gary Ramage

"People wanted to be friends with us to get my mom's cooking!"

Part of the capital's diverse kitchens

Ms Tesfaye said the multicultural cuisines of Australia inspired her to share her culture and her cooking with Canberrans.

"I was always love cooking while I'm in Ethiopia, I'm the one who cooks at home for festive seasons," she said.

"I'm so proud of it, no one knew it existed, and now it exists side by side with the other cuisines."

Ms Sendaba said her mum was the first Ethiopian food stall at Canberra Day, the Multicultural Festival and Gorman House markets.

Ms Tesfaye also ran a restaurant in Dickson for 10 years before moving to her current spot in New Acton.

While she might be hanging up her apron, Ms Tesfaye said she's got no plans of stopping anytime soon.

She wants to spent time in Ethiopia collecting recipes from different regions, and is considering writing a cookbook.

And with a new grandchild due in June, she said she's sure to have her hands full.

Fekerte's Ethiopian will serve its last meal on Friday, May 31.

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