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Manchester Evening News
Manchester Evening News
Entertainment
Bethan Shufflebotham

'I'm probably the most trusted person in Manchester when it comes to vintage'

There's nothing I love more than observing someone in a job they love and excel in. I could sit in a bakery and watch a master foodie make croissants all day long, I am mesmerised by watching a seamstress pull fabric through a machine. A combination of passion and experience making each movement look so easy.

So when I got talking to Thurston from Bionic Seven - a vintage shop in Manchester's Northern Quarter - about his outfit for Steal Their Style, the flow of words that followed blew me away. I'd consider myself a vintage enthusiast, I like to hunt out the odd St Michael's piece in a thrift store, but his knowledge and experience was on a completely different level - and it's possibly one of my favourite five-minute Steal Their Style conversations to date.

I love when people are passionate about clothing, in particular, whether that's collecting high end handbags as a hobby, or being dedicated to second-hand shopping. Fashion is such a visual representation of our identity and what we stand for, and there's something really powerful about that, whether its a need to feel comforted and cocooned by our clothing, or a desire to stand out and inject colour into the world.

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This week, photographer Ant, and I headed back to the Northern Quarter in search of fabulous, fun, and fashionable looks to hear about the stories and the people behind them - and this is what they had to say.

Guilia Bonometti

Italian musician Guilia moved to Manchester around six years ago when she was in a band, but now studies fashion. The 29-year-old wore a layered outfit with fun shapes and textures, and said she’s been able to ‘break free’ from trends and expectations since she left the music industry.

She wore a pair of Asics trainers with white tights and a dress from Chorlton’s McQueen Independent, where she works. Completing the look was a jumper from Vinted, her dad’s shirt, a secondhand jacket from Depop and a charity shop bag for £5.

Guilia said: “I tend to actively avoid looking at celebrities for style inspiration, I purposefully unfollow. I think they set a trend that everyone follows and even though everyone wants to look different, they all look the same.

“When I was on stage my personal style was limited in the way I expressed myself as you have to represent the music you make and at the time I wasn't making music I was happy with so my personal style wasn’t who I was. When I stopped making music I was able to break free from that and be myself.”

Maria Marshall

Fashion image making and styling student, Maria, who is studying at the University of Salford, dazzled in a chunky blue coat from Monki, brightening up the Northern Quarter.

The 21-year-old described her wardrobe as ‘playful, colourful and cute’ inspired by Japanese fashion and British icon Vivienne Westwood.

Maria wore a pair of croc effect trousers from Weekday with a pair of New Rocks and a patterned top from a Chinese fashion brand. She added a number of necklaces, including a Vivienne Westwood and some thrifted accessories.

She added: “I really like Japanese fashion, mostly harajuku style. I also love Vivienne Westwood and Collina Strada as well. I love the colours and bold patterns and they’re really out there and creative.”

Thurston G

Thurston, who works at the Northern Quarter vintage shop Bionic Seven, is the man in the know when it comes to all things vintage. When I asked what he was wearing, around 85 per cent of it made sense - I picked up Levi’s and vintage lambswool roll neck - the other elements so specific, down to the year and issue.

These details are very important to people like Thurston who are passionate about vintage - and his immense knowledge, even just of his outfit, was seriously impressive and of great value to customers visiting the store hoping to find a new special piece to add to their collection.

The 28-year-old, from Bolton, said: “These shoes are a pair of Aldens - handmade in Maine, normally they’re around £700 but I got them for a good price. These are the calfskin ones, all LHS, which means leisure hand sewn.”

He continued: “These are Original 1965 Levis Big Es, five stamp made in the New Jersey factory. I’ve re-patched them more times than I care to imagine.”

You see… I told you he know what he’s talking about. “Vintage lambswool white roll neck and a Caruso - all handmade in Italy - blazer on, and an M51, so 1951, Korean war issued US Army parka.”

The fashion enthusiast described himself as ‘probably the most trusted person in Manchester when it comes to vintage.’ His passion comes from an early age, inspired by trips to the second-hand stores with his parents and older brother.

He added: “In Bolton there used to be a second-hand vintage shop and our parents would take us to buy second-hand polos. I then got into high fashion. I used to collect Raf Simons, but after that I just reverted to what I know and love, which is American, Italian and Japanese tailoring. I really love my shoes and classic Levis.”

In order to be as knowledgeable as he is, Thurston says you have to be hands on, and have an eye for manufacturing details like zips and buttons.

He added: “There’s so much you can read and look at but you need the opportunity to pick up the garments, feel it, look at the smaller details. Some military pieces for example, two can look the same from a distance, but the zips and buttons could be different - you need to know why things are cut a certain way.

“My style has changed over the years, I love the history and why a piece was created, especially in menswear, because it was all made with purpose for practicality and that for me is so fascinating. It’s more about a purpose and an understanding for me.”

Sophie Gray

Dressed almost head to toe in Uniqlo, Sophie, from Stockport explained why she loves the brand - which has a store on Market Street - so much.

She wore a Uniqlo coat over a floral dress from Uniqlo, which was layered on top of a teal rollneck, also from the retailer. She paired the look with some M&S tights and Dr Martens.

Sophie said: “Uniqlo is really flexible - my mum also loves it and how she wears it is different to how I or my friends would wear it. You can really put your own style on top of their basics.”

The 36-year-old loves a layered outfit and the ‘cosiness of having lots on’. She added: “I love longer skirts squishing around and filling the space a bit more. Don't be afraid to take up space in the world.”

Working often in London, Sophie likes to visit the V&A museum for inspiration, admiring old photographs and fabrics from years gone by. She added: “I love the uniqueness of fashion from the past, especially the fabrics. I then like to mix second-hand shopping with more affordable high street pieces.”

Evie Kempen

Also a University of Salford fashion student was 19-year-old Evie, who was out, like me, scouting the streets for stylish outfits.

A thrifty shopper, Evie was gifted her shoes for her birthday, and wore them with a 90s style skirt that was her mums, then her sisters. She added a Brandy Melville top and a Decathlon coat that was the bargain of the century.

She said: “I got it for £1 at a car boot. The woman was so confused about why I wanted it so bad, but I often think that those are the best finds.”

Evie likes to accessorise, and wore some Sour Cherry earrings from Afflecks, with a 2003 necklace - the year she was born - using “I’m a Libra” as explanation.

She added: “Before I came to Manchester I lived in South London and living here has helped me a lot. Manchester is crazy for style, it’s so diverse and there’s so much variety.

“My aesthetic is very 90s but I also like the 80s and 00s. On my Pinterest board there’s the classic Rachel Green, and I love earthy tones.”

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