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The Guardian - UK
The Guardian - UK
Travel
Kevin Rushby

‘I feel the wing-draught of dozens of hummingbirds’: the wild beauty of Panama

Kevin Rushby standing behind Kiki waterfall.
Kevin Rushby beside the Kiki waterfall. Photograph: Kevin Rushby/The Guardian

Suddenly the road loses the plot. Deep holes spread like a rash, then become pits that expand into missing sections filled with rainwater. An old man on a mule saunters past, unsmiling. The landscape remains the same: rolling ranching land dotted with clumps of jungle, banana and bamboo, though the houses are smaller, and poorer. The neatly painted homes of earlier in the day give way to wooden shacks. Chickens, dogs and children scratch around them. Under a thatched roof someone dozes in a gently swaying hammock. The car drops a wheel into a hole with a sickening crunch.

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