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The Guardian - UK
The Guardian - UK
Environment
Constance Malleret in Rio de Janeiro

Humpbacks return to Rio: the whales are back from the brink of extinction – but will tourism help or hinder?

A whale with its belly uppermost leaping out of the sea
The humpback whale population fell below 1,000 after intense hunting but is now estimated at 35,000. Photograph: Bruna Rezende/Amigos da Jubarte

The anticipation is palpable onboard the Boaventura II as the yacht sets off from Rio de Janeiro at sunrise. Once beyond the Cagarras Islands, rocky outcrops just three miles off Ipanema beach, the group gathers at the bow and starts scanning the horizon.

They do not have to wait long. “Eleven o’clock!” someone calls out, as a pod of bottlenose dolphins appears, playfully diving in and out of the water. Then, two spouts of vapour hanging in the air signal the reason for the outing: a pair of humpback whales. The majestic mammals surface to breathe with an unhurried chuff, before revealing the underside of their fluke as they dive back underwater.

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