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The Guardian - UK
The Guardian - UK
Lifestyle
Bethan McKernan in Bethlehem

‘Hummus is banned in my kitchen’: meet the chef bringing ‘the essence of Palestine’ to London

Chef Fadi Kattan discusses fresh ingredients for his dishes with street seller Umm Nabil in the Bethlehem souq
Chef Fadi Kattan discusses ingredients for his dishes with street seller Umm Nabil in the Bethlehem souq Photograph: Quique Kierszenbaum/The Observer

Akub, also known as gundelia, is an unruly plant that blossoms across the eastern Mediterranean and Middle East after the winter rains. Some believe that the crown of thorns placed on Jesus’s head during the crucifixion was made from this long-lasting, sweet-smelling thistle.

It is foraged everywhere, from the Kurdish highlands and Cyprus to the Sinai peninsula, for its earthy, tender stems and delicate-tasting flower buds, but is most highly prized in Palestinian cuisine. Each spring, people defy the Israeli authorities – who say the plant is in danger of overcollection – to bring as many bags of prickly akub as they can carry back to their kitchens to throw into meat stews or fry with eggs and lemon.

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