Renovations, reopenings and reinventions are ten a penny on the restaurant scene, but I haven’t seen quite so expert an execution as at Angelo Sato’s Humble Chicken 2.0 in a while.
Having originally won over London with his yakitori and “comb-to-tail” chicken wizardry with the first iteration (and his debut) in 2021, Sato returned to Frith Street at the start of the year with its reincarnation. The shiny new Japanese eight-course tasting menu “with a European accent” reflects his heritage and time spent in prominent kitchens (Restaurant Gordon Ramsay and Tom Sellers’ Restaurant Story, to name a couple this side of the pond). Some might mourn the loss of another a la carte in Soho but with a chef like Sato behind the counter – known as much for his ambition as his credentials – you won’t miss it.
