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The Guardian - AU
The Guardian - AU
National
Eliza Spencer

How two vehicle breakdowns showed me the best – and worst – of rural Australia

Outback building, ploughed field
Rural Australians live with an understanding that when something goes wrong, the best possible help might be across state lines or over the mountains. Photograph: Marnie Griffiths/Getty Images

Covered in road dust and sweat, and eating shakshuka at the kitchen bench of a colleague wasn’t exactly how I envisioned rural life. A weekend ride to the foothills of the Snowy Mountains and an inclination for the scenic route came to a shuddering halt about 10km from the small town of Harden, in the New South Wales south-west slopes. My housemate Daniel’s motorcycle had cooked itself, oil-starved after hitting a particularly nasty pothole and losing a sump plug – we were stuck.

Rationing two cans of ginger beer for hydration, we walked up a hill in 40C temperature, to the shade and safety of a farm driveway. I knew the Rural Network columnist Gabrielle Chan lived somewhere in the area, filing from “near Harden” for years.

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