Some recipes, such as the gnocchi featured here last week, require only the fluffy insides of a baked potato, leaving the skins behind. Plenty of people leave the skins of their jacket spuds uneaten, too, though heaven knows why: it’s easily the best bit. These humble leftovers are an opportunity to make one of the most indulgent savoury treats known to humankind: loaded potato skins. I love them with just sea salt and a dollop of mayonnaise or soured cream, but they’re also gorgeous piled high with whatever bits and pieces you have to hand, turning scraps and leftovers into something that’s totally scrumptious.