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Evening Standard
Evening Standard
Lifestyle
Radhika Aligh

How to spend the perfect weekend in Johannesburg

Johannesburg is a relatively young city with a complicated past that began with colonialism, followed by apartheid before liberation in the early 1990s. In recent years, though, the charming metropolis of contradictions has re-established itself as a destination for the historically inclined, creatively driven, and culinary curious.

From the arts district of Rosebank to the buzzing nightlife in the once no-go area of Soweto, Johannesburg has seen a surge in café culture, galleries, and cool hangout spaces to enjoy music and dance. Wander through its changing neighbourhoods, where barbecue shops hide behind graffiti and stories of its turbulent past are echoed in prison brick walls.

What to see in Johannesburg

Spend an afternoon reflecting on South Africa’s chequered past at the Apartheid Museum exhibitions exploring the racial segregation that operated from 1948 until the early 1990s. It covers remarkable stories of courage and resilience in the face of atrocities. In terms of iconic locations, it does not get more significant than Constitution Hill, the site of former prisons Old Fort, Number Four, and the Women’s Jail, where Nelson Mandela, Mahatma Gandhi, and Winnie Madikizela-Mandela served time. Visitors can explore the prison buildings, walk through the chilling corridors, and view exhibitions that depict the lives of those who were incarcerated there.

The Apartheid Museum reflects on stories of racial segregation within South Africa (South Africa Tourism)

Rosebank has Joburg’s largest concentration of art galleries within walking distance of each other. Between them, they reflect diverse cultural heritage and provide a platform for artists to express their unique perspectives. One of the prominent art destinations is Keyes Art Mile, a creative hub that houses several contemporary galleries and design studios. Drop into TMRW Gallery and Banele Khoza’s Bkhz space displaying works from local artists.

Rosebank is also home to the Everard Read Gallery, one of South Africa’s oldest commercial art galleries. Established in 1913, it exhibits a wide range of contemporary and modern art from established and emerging painters, sculptors, and photographers.

You cannot leave Johannesburg without a visit to the townships of Soweto. The once no-go area on the outskirts of Joburg is today a must-visit tourist hotspot thanks to a surge in restaurants, bars, and a thriving theatre and music scene. Its main attraction, Vilakazi Street, is the only street in the world to have housed two Nobel Prize laureates, Nelson Mandela and Archbishop Desmond Tutu. Mandela’s former residence, now known as the Mandela House Museum, offers a glimpse into his personal life and the history of the anti-apartheid movement. Just around the corner is the Hector Pieterson Museum and Memorial, dedicated to the memory of the 1976 Soweto Uprising, a pivotal event in the anti-apartheid struggle.

The once no-go area of Soweto has became a must-see for anyone visiting Johannesburg (South Africa Tourism)

Where to eat in Johannesburg

Mamasamba is a little oasis amid towering glass-clad buildings in Rosebank. Vine-wrapped walls, LED screens, colourful decor, and the fragrance of ceviche, this two-storey restaurant is a complete sensory experience. Treat yourself to some freshly prepared sushi accompanied by cocktails from Gorilla Bar.

A short walk away, Marble Restaurant taps on two South African food obsessions: cooking on open fire and meat. Chef David Higgs has created a menu celebrating local produce from the most respected farmers, wines included.

Joburg is a vast city, so make the most of your time in an area, especially if you are time-strapped. When in Soweto, explore its multiple culinary offering, from traditional Sunday feasts at Sakhumzi Restaurant to a refined dining experience in 1947 on Vilakazi Street. The townships are also well known for their all-night party scene, with popular bars like Konka attracting A-list celebrities, influencers, and socialities.

Where to stay in Johannesburg

Johannesburg has a buzzing nightlife, and guests of the recently opened voco hotel know that all too well. Located within The Bank in Rosebank, the Art Deco property boasts 131 delightfully decorated rooms in shades of pink, blue, and grey.

Everything about the interiors, from the double-height floor-to-ceiling windows and leather furnishings to brass table lamps, are inspired by the era. The black brick façade creates an impression of strength, softened by the greenery along the edges. Each room has between four and five pieces of original local artwork specially commissioned for the building.

Rooms at the voco reflect the The Bank’s Art Deco architecture (voco Johannesburg)

From budget to bougie, there are plenty of dining and drinking options around voco; however, the best is on your doorstep. Proud Mary, on the ground floor, is an all-day eatery that serves breakfast, lunch, and dinner. At the centre is an opulent mid-century Great Gatsby-esque wine bar clad in wood and brass decorated with wine bottles colour-coded in white, red, and rosé. The menu is an amalgamation of world cuisine made from fine cuts of meat and fresh seafood.

Tucked away in the upmarket area of Sandhurst, The Saxon is the finest Johannesburg has to offer. The iconic property has played host to several actors, prime ministers, and politicians over the years; however, it is Nelson Mandela whose legacy dominates the corridors of this opulent historic hotel. Madiba spent months finishing his acclaimed book Long Walk to Freedom in this building. The two-bedroom suite where he stayed, known as the Nelson Mandela Platinum Suite, is available for hire, packed full of memorabilia, eclectic artwork, and a piece of literary history.

Nelson Mandela finished his acclaimed book Long Walk to Freedom here (The Saxon)

Its large, spacious rooms are surrounded by lush green spaces and tall trees, making it a little sanctuary of peace in the middle of a bustling city. All luxury suites include a four-poster bed, a living area, bathtub, separate shower room, and fully stocked bar. A short walk through a futuristic-looking tunnel takes you onto the family villas with a private pool and concierge service.

Socialising areas on the ground floor consist of two swimming pools, serene, well-manicured gardens, an open terrace, and a bar. Dine in the elegantly designed restaurant Qunu where African ingredients marry international flavours in style. The contemporary-looking plates of food are pretty as a picture — with the taste to match. Pair your fish or meat with the finest wines from The Saxon’s carefully picked, well-stocked cellar.

Booking details

British Airways flies from Heathrow to Johannesburg twice daily, with economy tickets from £650 and premium economy from £1,500.

Rooms at voco Johannesburg start from £133 per night excluding breakfast

Stays at The Saxon start from £470 per night including breakfast

For other ideas on what to do in South Africa, visit southafrica.net

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