The Light Is Doing More Work Than You Think
Harsh directional light from above makes any fabric look crisper than it is. It deepens the shadow between folds, which reads as structure. A limp georgette shot under a single overhead LED looks like it holds a pleat. A stiff brocade shot in diffused studio light looks soft and drapey. Neither is dishonest in isolation, but the effect compounds when the photographer also controls the angle.
