Or cheese on toast elevated from an everyday tea to something far more luxurious. The idea of adding crab to rarebit has been around since at least the 1930s, when it was described as an American creation, but the dish has had a resurgence in recent years as chefs look for new ways with old favourites (see also truffle macaroni cheese and panko-clad fish finger sandwiches). Happily, it’s as easy as you might imagine to recreate at home – “so quick and simple that I often whip it up after work to eat in front of the telly”, as chef Bryn Williams explains – and a gratifying way to make an often pricey seasonal ingredient go a little bit further.