“A suit should be a pretty pure and time-tolerant wardrobe piece,” says Tom Riley, the co-founder of tailor P. Johnson. Since the suit has remained in style for over a century, enduring in both fashion and popular culture as a symbol of elegance, this is particularly sage advice.
A properly tailored suit has the added benefit of being universally flattering. In terms of clothing, suits have a distinct ability to accentuate the good parts of a figure, hide what needs to be hidden and create balance in between. As Melbourne-based tailor, Emily Nolan says, “a suit that fits you well will never go out of style”.
Both Nolan and Riley specialise in made-to-measure suits, which can be a big investment (especially in the current economy). Here, they share their suggestions for timeless suiting, whether it is off the rack or made just for you.
Choosing the fabric
“Choice of cloth needs to be about the purpose of the suit and the job it has to do for you,” says Riley. “Merino, silk, linen, cotton, and blends of these will all create a very different look and purpose.”
Nolan believes your first suit choice should always be wool – even in summer. “Wool suiting is timeless, hard-wearing and breathable. It will keep you cool when it’s hot and warm when it’s cold without having to walk around with mountains of layers on,” she says. “It will carry you through every mode of your day, from meetings in the morning, to the 3pm school pickup, to beers with your oldest friend.”
But not all wool is created equal. If you need a suit for the winter and want something warmer she suggests a wool flannel or wool and cashmere blend. For the height of summer, she says to opt for a lighter weight wool – like a fresco.
If you’ll be wearing your suit in the tropics (AKA a summer wedding in Australia) it is also worth exploring lighter weight fabrics like linen and cotton. These plant-based fibres “are gorgeous textiles for a more relaxed, lived-in feel” Nolan says, but be wary of their tendency to crease.
Note the lining
While it might be tempting to focus only on the outer jacket material, lining is equally important. Nolan says, lining “is the barrier between your skin and the outer shell of the suit, so it needs to both shield the shell from your sweat and natural oils, as well as feel soft against the body for comfort.”
Since polyester is made from oil, it has a difficult relationship with body odour and sweat. “If a suit or garment is lined in polyester then the breathable exterior fabric becomes pointless,” she says. “Polyester does not allow moisture to escape and evaporate … Regardless of how nice or high grade your suit’s shell is, with a polyester lining, you will not benefit.” Any cellulose-based fibre will provide a breathable alternative, with viscose rayon or cupro being the most durable options.
One way to protect the outer fabric of the suit is to have sweat shields – a piece of lining that sit in your jacket’s armpits – inserted into your suit by a tailor. “This is to protect your garment from discolouration from perspiration, or deodorant choice,” Nolan says.
Jacket fit
Riley says the jacket should fit the chest cleanly. Look for “smoothness of cloth rather than it being dragged this way or that by the body”.
The fabric should not buckle along the line of the lapels, or across the chest. Around the waist and beneath the shoulder blades, there should be just enough fabric to pinch between your fingers, but not so much that it buckles.
The shoulders should sit in-line with the arms, and the fabric around the biceps should not be too tight. To test this, pretend to hold a steering wheel and see if the jacket allows you to move comfortably.
Sleeves “need to land at the right spots for your preference” Riley says. If you’re not sure, generally, the sleeve should finish roughly between the end of the bone at the base of your palm, and the boniest point on your wrist.
If you’re buying off the rack, a trip to the tailor to make small adjustments to the length of the sleeve or the trousers can make a big difference to the overall look of a suit, and may be included in the purchase price.
Trouser cut
An important consideration for trousers is how comfortable they are around the waist. “A waistband with structure will make you feel supported without restrictions,” Nolan says.
Look for trousers that have additional fabric stored in the seams, as this will allow them to be taken in and out in the future.
The rise on the front and back of the trouser is important too, says Nolan. “If it’s not long enough, you’ll get wedgies in the front and back.”
Although skinny suit pants come in and out of style, if you’re looking to invest in a timeless suit, slimmer is not necessarily the way to go.
“A good trouser establishes the longest, straightest line possible, which is typically a wider leg with a higher waist position,” says Riley. “This is because it isn’t then disturbed by the shapes of the leg underneath, and it stretches the apparent leg length upwards.”
But like all things, this comes down to personal preference and what makes you feel best. After all, Riley says: “Clothing is a language and one needs to find their voice.”
