Get all your news in one place.
100's of premium titles.
One app.
Start reading
The Guardian - US
The Guardian - US
Entertainment
Adrian Horton

How The Bear became America’s feelgood show of the summer

Jeremy Allen White and Ayo Edebiri in The Bear.
Jeremy Allen White and Ayo Edebiri in The Bear. Photograph: Chuck Hodes/Chuck Hodes/FX

A year ago, The Bear, an FX on Hulu series about a beleaguered Chicago sandwich shop with big-league aspirations, became the breakout show of the summer for primarily two reasons. One, it viscerally captured, better than any scripted show in recent memory, the cortisol and cacophony of a working kitchen; each episode barely left the backroom of The Original Beef of Chicagoland, a near-constant stream of oversubscribed orders, combustible egos and “yes chefs”. And two, it was palpably hot, not least because The Beef was almost always one mistake away from a grease fire.

There was the ever-present heat of a deadline, the scorching pressure to keep up and the volatile perfectionism of head chef Carmen “Carmy” Berzatto (Jeremy Allen White). White’s Carmy – tattooed, masochistic, grief-addled yet highly competent in a tight white T-shirt – became an overnight internet boyfriend, a dirtbag sex symbol whose lack of any apparent interest in sex only heightened his appeal. With eight half-hour episodes, no sexual or romantic storylines and an ensemble kitchen crew cast that grew better by the scene, The Bear was one of the very few shows that left me craving more.

Sign up to read this article
Read news from 100's of titles, curated specifically for you.
Already a member? Sign in here
Related Stories
Top stories on inkl right now
One subscription that gives you access to news from hundreds of sites
Already a member? Sign in here
Our Picks
Fourteen days free
Download the app
One app. One membership.
100+ trusted global sources.