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Emanuela Prandelli, Associate Professor of Fashion & Luxury Management, Department of Management & Technology, Bocconi University

How Maison Schiaparelli pioneered a new form of fashion currency

In a luxury market often blamed for flattening creativity, Maison Schiaparelli has long stood out for its defiant unconventionality. Where Coco Chanel’s creations exalted the functional elegance of the modern woman, Elsa Schiaparelli was interpreting her dreams, transforming her dresses into intellectual statements.

The story of how Elsa Schiaparelli did this is celebrated in Schiaparelli: Fashion Becomes Art, the current exhitibion at the V&A in London (until 8 November 2026). It also shows her legacy is intact. In transforming clothing into something provocative and fantastical, fuelled with an unconventional viewpoint and rooted in craftmanship, current creative director Daniel Roseberry has stayed true to Schiaparelli’s philosophy.

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