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Evening Standard
Evening Standard
Josh Barrie

How a tiny taverna in Athens inspired London's hottest new restaurant, Agora

On the corner of two faceless Athens streets, behind parked cars and parades of mopeds, and beneath an old building covered in reams of fading graffiti, is an unmarked basement safe from the hot Greek sun. Inside is, quite possibly, the best restaurant in the world.

Diporto is a special place. A romantic one. Each lunch time, Varvakeios Central Market comes alive with fish, meat, goods and local produce, as if all the freneticism of Athens has entwined, and nearby is a small, tranquil space with, on each side of the corner, two sets of exacting stairs that lead guests down to paradise. 

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