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The Guardian - US
The Guardian - US
World
Tiago Rogero in Rio de Janeiro

How a month-long competitive food tour is rewriting the story of Rio’s favelas

a woman smiles while holding a burger
Maria Cristiane de Sales, from Herói's Burger, opened her burger restaurant, inside Maré, a complex of 16 favelas home to 140,000 people. Photograph: Alan Lima/The Guardian

Even at the age of nine, Maria Cristina de Sales knew exactly when to ask her mother’s colleagues at the slaughterhouse for a piece of the pig they were butchering: when they got close to the pork leg, her favourite part.

When she grew up, Sales followed the path of many others from Brazil’s deprived north-east and moved south in search of better work opportunities. She arrived in Rio de Janeiro and, unable to afford a home in tourist-heavy south zone, moved to a favela further north.

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