
Thai restaurants, it seems, are like buses. You wait ages for one, then several come along at once. Next week sees the opening of both Long Chim and AngloThai in the West End, while in the past 12 months Kolae has launched in Borough Market and Koyn Thai in Mayfair. Thai food hasn’t been this ubiquitous in London since it first made a splash in the 1990s. Yet perhaps we don’t need to think too deeply for the reasons behind its current resurgence.
“Thai food just tastes so bloody good,” says David Thompson, the chef and co-founder of Long Chim (36-40 Rupert Street, W1D 6DW, longchim.london). “It has an intensity of flavour and an exquisite balance of taste that just sings, wherever in the world you might be. Thai people value their stomachs and their souls, and they tend to both with equal care.”