Two days after my 40th birthday, my husband and I attended a friend’s wedding in Palm Springs, California. Seated among strangers, we made small talk about fashion and first-world problems that filled time rather than stimulated the mind. It was then that a wedding guest narrowed in at my roots and said, “I like how you’re embracing the grays.”
Dumfounded, I ran my fingers through my hair. “Well, life has been busy and ...”
“No really,” he interrupted. “So many women try to hide their aging beauty. It really works on you.”
My troubled tresses were not intentional. I was just a mess on the go.
The following evening I was on a red eye flight to Hong Kong — gray roots and all. It would be one of my final trips before the world turned upside down. There were rumors of a virus on the rise, and travel was getting choppy. Weeks before I had planned a two-stop birthday gift to myself that would include three days in Hong Kong and three days in Beijing — a whirlwind journey tapping into the best of both destinations.
A traveler-in-the-know let me in on Cathay Pacific’s booking secret, and the financial benefits of paying in a foreign currency as opposed to U.S. dollars. Of the 15-hour flight from LAX, I slept 12 of them, arriving to Hong Kong rested and ready to roam.
Straight into the heart of the city, I checked into the Mandarin Oriental Hong Kong, a historic hotel overlooking Victoria Harbour. Here, heritage meets luxury with neutral tones, marble floors and white satin curtains gauzing city skylines.
I opened the window and inhaled the charcoal horizon redolent of brackish seawater, diesel fumes and pickled cabbage. It was raining, yet far from mentally gloomy despite the fact 7 million residents were battling their own grays.
Between the extradition bill, protests and a whisper of COVID outbreaks, Hong Kong marched for freedom of "one country, two systems.” In the midst of the political storm, I came to sightsee, and simultaneously gained a profound vision of independence Hong Kong holds dear.
Honor, loyalty and tradition — the writing was on the wall, literally. As the birthplace of graffiti, Hong Kong was first tagged in 1956 by Tsang Tsou Choi, a commoner who believed Kowloon Peninsula belonged to his ancestors. The “King of Kowloon” staked his claim across city streets, eventually gaining both acceptance and momentum in 2011.
He turned Hong Kong’s street scene into an Instagram target, especially in Old Town Central. Tucked into narrow alleys are vibrant murals and edgy art, giving a glimpse into Hong Kong’s chronicles. Graham Street is the best place to marinate in brick-walled stories, each one whispering harlequin secrets to observant wanderers.
Peppering this trendy SoHo district are wine bars, teashops, galleries, boutiques and museums including Tai Kwun — a colonial-era prison-turned-cultural center that preserved 16 buildings for contemporary art.
Most city museums are free on Wednesdays, including Hong Kong’s Heritage Museum, Museum of Art, Science Museum, and just west — PMQ, a multi-purpose design center that once served as Police Married Quarters.
Neighboring this art complex are cobblestone stairways where sun-beaten vendors sell dried fish and healing balms. In Hong Kong, there’s no battling between generations or millennial acquisitions. Instead, there’s a filial piety and respect for hierarchical relationships that pale inside U.S. borders.
This admiration for antiquity pours from the people into the inanimate and beyond. Ten minutes past the graffiti on Graham, I discovered this firsthand at the Man Mo temple. Built in 1847, this historic landmark is lined with coiled incense and paper lanterns honoring the Gods of Literature and War. Sandalwood incense perfumed the air with a sweet-timber fog that billowed from the temple on Hollywood Street.
In less than eight hours on the ground, I had been immersed in a cloud of culture. Back to Mandarin Oriental I went, where business is king and fashion reigns. And then there was me, a casual traveler — in need of a salon — on a mission to discover Hong Kong’s soul.
So I went to the spa, opting for the Chinese Meridian Massage, a toxin-pulling treatment that weighed heavily on the side of beneficial torture. In broken English, my therapist questioned my pain threshold. Little did I know he would attach micro-plungers to my back (called “cupping”) that left me looking like I had lost a battle with an octopus.
Bruised back and all, the next morning I headed to Lantau Island, home of the Ngong Ping 360 cable car. Connecting Tung Chung City with Ngong Ping Village, the glass-bottom gondola crossed Tung Chung Bay with views of South China Sea and North Lantau Country Park.
Some 260 steps took me to the lotus throne of Big Buddha, the second largest sitting Buddha in Asia. Nearby I visited the 300-year-old Tai O fishing village, and Po Lin Monastery. Falling into a traveler’s trance, I was mesmerized by the hypnotic chants coming from the Buddhist temple. Draped in red silks were nearly 50 monks, chanting as if one voice. It might have been two minutes or 20, I don’t remember. But there was a moment when someone tapped me on the shoulder to make way for a selfie.
Make way I did, back to my hotel for one of the most impressive meals of my trip. The Mandarin has 10 restaurants — three with Michelin Star status — including Amber by Richard Ekkebus. The Dutch chef serves a progressive, seafood-driven menu void of dairy, sugar and gluten. After seven courses and wine pairing to match, it was time to hit the local bar — if I could find it, that is.
Rumor had it a swanky speakeasy called “PDT” (Please Don’t Tell) was tucked somewhere on the mezzanine level of the hotel. Directions led me to an empty phone booth.
I thought I was losing my mind. After two failed attempts, I picked up the phone and heard a woman on the other line ask me for a password.
“PDT ...?” I mumbled.
Suddenly, the back panel of the phone booth opened, unveiling an uber-hip bar too cool for me. But still, I had a martini that went down like water.
Late to bed, early to rise for my final day in Hong Kong. Scheduled island hopping landed me at the UNESCO Global Geopark in Sai Kung. Composed of two geological regions, the park boasts hexagonal rock columns, sea caves and volcanic islands dating back 400 million years.
There was just enough time to hike Dragon’s Back, a 5-mile trail considered Hong Kong's best urban hike. Physically exhausted yet culturally nourished, I capped the night with the Victoria Harbour light show. Every evening at 8 p.m., skyscrapers come to life with lasers synced to music by the Hong Kong Philharmonic Orchestra.
Next stop, Beijing.
In a city of 21 million, I was but a speck pushing toward the heart of imperial Beijing. I booked two nights at Mandarin’s sister property, a boutique hotel overlooking the Forbidden City. Opened in March 2019, Mandarin Oriental Wangfujing is like stepping into the home of your wealthiest friend.
Inspired by Chinese ceramics and water wells, rooms are contemporary-fresh with natural light, four-poster beds, cashmere throws and teapots by Vera Wang. Within walking distance are sites including Tiananmen Square, Llama Temple and the Temple of Heaven. There are bikes for borrow and rooftop Tai Chi, the latter of which I tried but never quite mastered.
Despite the proximity to all things cultural, I couldn’t leave without visiting the iconic Great Wall, definitely worth the 90-minute drive. Crossing nine provinces, the awe-inspiring barrier snakes 13,170 miles and dates back more than 2,300 years.
After tracing the preserved path of the Ming dynasty, the easiest route down was via a toboggan slide. Unconventional yet convenient, I zipped down the course, ignoring the grays and tailgating riders half my age.
At the top of my culinary bucket list was lunch at Huajia Yiyuan, an authentic restaurant known for having the best Peking duck in Beijing. It delivered on every level, from the dumplings and crawfish to the crispy duck served with paper-thin pancakes and garnishes.
From there, I roamed the Forbidden City, a nearly 200-year-old imperial palace which served 24 emperors from the Ming- through-Qing dynasties. Ornate is an understatement. Gold relics and white jade adorned some-1,000 rooms where 10,000 people catered to the needs of one emperor. The stats were impressive, including the 80,000 visitors who flood the gates daily.
Closing out my time in China was a tour of the 798 Art District. It’s like the Chelsea of New York, with old military factories converted into galleries, museums, boutiques, cafés and bars. Upon request, the Mandarin can arrange visits with local artists, including Huang Rui — one of the founders of 798 and the Chinese contemporary art movement.
By early evening, I was back at the hotel, catching the last glimpse of the setting sun.
Blanketed beneath a layer of haze were silhouettes of imperial palaces, undisturbed as if savoring the silence after the masses.
Little did I know that in a matter of weeks, our world would be inked by darkness — a blot of uncertainty that would push beyond seasons of change. It was one that would impact livelihoods, health, community and travel. It had the power to erase hugs, handshakes and smiles by keeping borders locked, neighbors distant and friends 6 feet apart. In less than a year, it would transform the unprecedented into normalcy.
For now, I was free.
Aiming my lens toward the smog-smeared horizon, I snapped my final photo of pavilions under the muted sun. If there’s one thing Hong Kong and Beijing taught me, it’s to always embrace the grays.
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If you go
Lodging
Mandarin Oriental, Hong Kong: www.mandarinoriental.com/hong-kong
Mandarin Oriental Wangfujing, Beijing: www.mandarinoriental.com/beijing/wangfujing
Dining
Amber: www.mandarinoriental.com/hong-kong/the-landmark/fine-dining/restaurants/contemporary-cuisine/amber
Huajia Yiyuan (Hua’s Restaurant): www.huajiacai.com
PDT (Please Don’t Tell): www.mandarinoriental.com/hong-kong/the-landmark/fine-dining/bars/pdt
Visit
Hong Kong Street Art with Wanderlust Walks: www.wanderlustwalkshongkong.com
Ngong Ping 360: www.np360.com.hk/en/: UNESCO Global Geopark in Sai Kung: www.geopark.gov.hk/en_index.htm
The Great Wall of China: www.great-wallofchina.com
The Forbidden City (Palace Museum): www.dpm.org.cn/Home.html
798 Art District: www.798district.com
Cathay Pacific Airlines: www.cathaypacific.com
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