Ramzan brings a multitude of culinary delights, with haleem reigning as the city’s most-loved delicacy. The dish is traditionally prepared by expert chefs in large utensils placed on earthen ovens in restaurants and roadside stalls dotting the city.
Over the past few years, catalysed by the onset of the COVID-19 pandemic and the consequent shutting down of restaurants, women from across the city began preparing haleem in their kitchens, mainstreaming ‘homemade haleem’.
“Homemade haleem offers a healthier alternative to the one prepared in bulk at restaurants. In the Ramzan rush, the quality of ingredients and hygiene is compromised as big restaurants focus more on raking in profits,” says Maqsood Khan, a Begumpet resident who has been purchasing the dish from homemakers SB Haleem and Taj Caterers for years.
Known to be time-consuming and arduous, the preparation of haleem is widely considered a man’s job. In the bylanes of Old City, groups of men pounding wheat and meat together in large vessels is a common sight during Ramzan. However, for Kauser Merchant, who runs Koshe Catered Affairs, preparing Haleem while fasting is a labour of love despite the cumbersome process.
“I have been making haleem from home for about 5-6 years. The motivation behind starting this venture stemmed from my passion for cooking and the desire to share the authentic flavours of haleem with others. I noticed a dip in the quality of ingredients in the market for haleem, and I wanted to offer something premium to my community,” she tells The Hindu.
Similarly, for Vijaya Lakshmi, making haleem from home was driven by her and her daughter, Seshasri Reddy’s passion for cooking. Together they form the mother-daughter duo behind High On Haleem. “My daughter loves haleem and it wasn’t available during COVID, so I made it myself. Overnight it turned into a business and our first order itself was about 500 boxes,” she says.
High demand
With social media platforms and a dozen delivery apps, the demand for homemade haleem soared this year. “We make around 150-200 kgs of haleem per day. Some customers have travelled 150 km for our haleem. There are also customers from Bangalore and Chennai, where shipping cost is double the haleem cost. Considering the high demand, we have hired full-time delivery boys this season,” says Ms. Reddy.
Homemade haleem also evokes a sense of nostalgia that comes with generational recipes. “I use a traditional recipe handed down through generations, incorporating high-quality ingredients such as wheat, meat, lentils, spices, and herbs,” says Merchant, who sells about 200 kg during Ramzan. “While competition with mainstream restaurants is fierce, I find that my niche as a home chef provides a more personalised experience,” she adds.
“Women making haleem from home this Ramzan season is both reclaiming and dismantling the twin stereotypes that women belong in the kitchen versus only men can go through the challenging task of making haleem,” says home chef Urmi Chakraborty from Ameerpet, who has been making haleem and several other Hyderabadi dishes for the past 15 years.
