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The Guardian - UK
The Guardian - UK
Travel
Ben Rawlence

Hikes, hot tubs and proper snow? Our family ski trip in Slovakia is a revelation

Tatranská Lomnica is more a winter holiday centre than a ski resort.
Tatranská Lomnica is more a winter holiday centre than a ski resort. Photograph: Viacheslav Khmelnytskyi/Alamy

The Tatra mountains in Slovakia had been touted as a great destination for a family skiing holiday. But as we stumbled out of the sleeper train from Prague at Poprad station at 6am, we were more anxious than excited. From the station we could see the jagged peaks of the High Tatras rising like black and white knives with a luminous pre-dawn glow against a pale blue night sky. Across Europe the news had been dominated by the lack of snow, that climate change was bringing about the end of the skiing industry as we know it.

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