Hot, sweaty, sticky, and loud. These words best describe the traffic-laden streets of Manila, the capital of the Philippines. Here, two-wheeled mobility is pretty much essential, as motorcycles greatly outnumber cars, and the urban lifestyle is fast-paced, with people shuttling from one place to another on a near-constant basis.
Small-displacement two-wheelers like scooters reign supreme.
The motorcycle market in the Philippines is unique and very different from that of the Western world. Motorcycles like the KTM 390 Duke and Kawasaki Ninja 400 are considered well and truly premium, here, while small-displacement motorcycles like the Yamaha NMAX and Suzuki Raider dominate the streets.
There aren't too many Harleys here.
There are few traffic rules and regulations, as traffic discipline is little more than a suggestion, and cars, motorbikes, and all sorts of other vehicles scramble to make the most of the available space on the road. Roads here, especially the densely populated service roads that bridge residential areas with commercial areas, are loud with a constant cacophony of horns, revving engines, and people shouting for limited space.
Despite all the commotion, you get the feeling that everyone sort of knows what they’re doing. Organized chaos, if you will.
You think there’s no place for a premium, high-performance motorcycle in the Philippines given the tumult and love for smaller bikes. But that's not exactly the case, as there’s an interesting law that permits motorcycles with displacements 400cc and up access to the freeways. And for folks like me who rely on the freeway for even short commutes into the city, a “big bike” is essential.
Why a big bike makes sense for me
I’ve long been obsessed with cars and motorcycles, having fond memories when my mom would take me to watch all the big bike riders make their way up the mountains on Saturday and Sunday mornings.
But when I was old enough to drive, my parents were adamant about not buying me a motorcycle. (Editor's note: Most parents who don't ride are.) It wasn’t until I had graduated from university, started working, and had saved up enough dough to buy my own bike did I get a firsthand taste of the two-wheeled lifestyle.
My first motorcycle was a small-displacement KTM 200 Duke. But not long after, I upgraded to a 390 Duke, which is registered as a 400cc. I remember that first freeway ride. It was a combo of feeling like I was flying and as if my heart was being pulled out from my chest—sort of like when you’re riding a roller coaster. Soon, hitting the freeway felt like second nature, and it’s something I now do on a near-daily basis, as I live south of metro Manila in a city called Paranaque.
Flanked between the upscale suburban neighborhoods of Alabang and the industrial areas of Pasay, the quickest way to the city and conversely, the mountains to the south, is through the vast network of the South Luzon Expressway (SLEX). The benefits of having that freeway access are simply undeniable.
I can make quick work of city traffic by filtering through the urban jungle, while on the highway, my bike can easily keep pace with the rest of traffic. Better yet, some commercial centers and shopping malls allow big bikes to park in car slots, in consideration of how much heavier they are than their small-displacement counterparts.
But riding a big bike in a city with some of the densest traffic in the world isn’t all sunshine and rainbows as, during rush hour, a five-mile commute can easily take you more than an hour. A big bike doesn’t necessarily make that any easier.
I now ride a Yamaha MT-07—stay tuned for my long-term review—which has eight times the power of a regular scooter, but it also weighs nearly twice as much. And while having tons of power (and an exhaust that sounds absolutely guttural) is super cool, it should come as no surprise that it's also super impractical. When navigating bumper-to-bumper traffic, you want a bike that's friendly in terms of power delivery—something that won't pop the front wheel up with a slight twist of the throttle.
A bike that's light and lower to the ground makes for easier filtering in dense traffic, too. At a claimed weight of 406 pounds, the Yamaha MT-07 is light for its class, but when compared to, say, a Honda PCX160's 291 pounds, its heft becomes more than apparent.
Then there's the issue of heat. Summer days in Manila can easily see temperatures exceed 95 degrees Fahrenheit, and a big-displacement, high-performance parallel-twin engine isn't exactly the best way to stay cool. Once the aux fan kicks in as the engine temps rise, it blows a steady stream of hot air onto your crotch and thighs—not exactly the breath of fresh air when sitting in stop-and-go traffic in a humid environment.
Best of both worlds
This is why I alternate between my MT-07 and a Yamaha Fazzio, a retro-style 125cc scoot with mild hybrid tech. One is great for sitting in commuter traffic with one hand on a cool bottle of water and the other on the front brake, while the other is great for everything else.
Despite such minor issues, big bike culture persists in the Philippines. There’s an undeniable cool factor that accompanies one, akin to that of driving a sports car. You also pretty much instantly become friends with any other big bike riders, as lots of folks whom I consider friends started as random strangers I chanced upon at a gas station, cafe, or in a motorcycle shop.
Big bikes are more of a lifestyle symbol in the Philippines, as you don’t really need them to get around, especially if you live in the city. But like everywhere else, they’re sure as hell tons of fun. They're also special, as they aren't as common.
There's interesting motorcycle culture here, and if you're planning on visiting the Philippines, a big bike might be the best way to make new friends and see the sights. Perhaps even get in touch with me, and maybe we even could go on a couple of rides.
