Call it what you will ... bubbles, sparkling, fizz ... even Champagne if you're okay to have the French labelling you a blasphemer and baying for blood.
But the truth is at this time of year there's a place for sparkling wine in every household.
For me, like many, Christmas and New Year without bubbles falls very flat.
Think of it like Scomo's ukulele version of April Sun in Cuba ... somehow, it just ain't the same.
So, in an effort to bring some cheer to your festive season celebrations, here are a few good options that should do the job nicely.
PRESTIGE
These are wines that stood out for their quality above all else.
These aren't the ones to be popping at midnight when you're already in glorious full party mode.
Savour these guys first, then let your hair down.
Pierre's Pinot Noir Chardonnay Methode Traditionelle, 2015 ($120)
Rare, only 200 bottles produced so get it fast as there are only a couple of dozen left. It was cellared in the Branxton cellar door for eight years before release - and the patience was well worth it. The fruit flavours are still there but time has meant they're wrapped up in rich, honeyed layers. A touch of decadence. pierreswines.com.au
Lowe Rose Cuvee, 2019 ($95)
A pinot chardonnay blend from Mudgee, coppery salmon in colour. It's dry and complex with strawberries, citrus crispness and a hint of graphite. It's lively and fresh in the mouth and has that undeniable sense of quality about it. A special occasion wine. lowefamilywineco.com.au
Chandon Vintage Cuvee, 2017 ($44)
This Yarra Valley operation is one of Australia's premier sparkling wine producers. It's creamy, with biscuity characters starting to show through. There's still plenty of fruit, but some complex honey notes balancing the citrussy freshness. You can't go wrong.
chandon.com.au
Arras Brut Elite ($65)
Tasmania's Arras is right at the top of sparkling wine production in Australia. This isn't their flagship by any means, but don't worry, it's still serious quality. A blend of pinot noir, chardonnay and pinot meuniere, it's red fruit driven, with mushrooms and truffles in the mix as well. It's minerally, with impressive persistence.
ROCK SOLID
The next few wines on our list aren't generally speaking as expensive, but are tasty enough to hold their own. You can have a downright flavorsome festive season with these without doing any serious damage to the hip pocket.
De Bortoli Sparkling Pinot Noir ($28)
A very pale blush colour, this is elegant, lively and just highly slurpable. Flavours of fresh strawberry and red apple, with a creamy round texture and very fine bead. It's dangerously easy drinking. shop.debortoli.com.au
Colmar Blanc de Blancs, 2017 ($55)
This wine from Orange is light and zippy ... very much made in an aperitif style to kick-start the celebrations. There's citrus and some oatmeal biscuit flavours, loads of fine bubbles, and a fresh, clean finish with a creamy texture. A crowd-pleaser. colmarestate.com.au
Peterson House Sparkling Semillon, 2019 ($36)
Peterson House at Pokolbin carries a whole range of bubbles. This one, made from the Hunter's flagship white variety, is for those who like a tangy edge to their bubbles. The lemon and grapefruit bouquet carries through and there's a distinct toasty note. For those planning seafood, this will hit the spot.
Howard Park Jete Premier Brut NV ($42)
This is made from chardonnay and is a big, generous mouthful of flavour. There's citrus and sweet red apple, supported by a biscuity brioche character, topped off with loads of bubbly energy on the tongue. A creamy texture and soft on the tongue ... what's not to like about all that? burchfamilywines.com.au
SIMPLY RED
Here's a bit of trivia for you - sparkling red is an Australian invention.
Some people struggle to come to grips with a sparkling wine that's red.
A pity, because they are excellent festive season wines.
Sparkling red goes with pork, ham, turkey and duck - hot or cold, it doesn't matter.
If that's not a Christmas wine, I don't know what is.
Chateau Tanunda Sparkling Shiraz NV ($28)
Chateau Tanunda doesn't do understated. They're big on flavour, and this is no different. You're getting a bold burst of blackcurrant and black cherry flavours - even nudging in to licorice and aniseed territory - with some lifted spice. This one's an extrovert. chateautanunda.com
Whispering Brook Sparkling Shiraz, 2021 ($55)
This is a lighter, zippier wine than the Chateau Tanunda. It has been a huge hit at the cellar door, with its layers of pinprick bubbles. This is full of dark cherry and mulberry flavours, all velvety and sleek and carrying a sprinkle of spice. If you're new to sparkling shiraz, this Hunter offering would make an ideal starting place. whispering-brook.com
SOMETHING DIFFERENT
Want to have something different - something people may not be familiar with - but not at the expense of quality?
Here's a couple of options that will hit the spot.
Comyns and Co Sparkling Gruner Veltliner, 2022 ($36)
Pokolbin winemaker Scott Comyns believes this is the only sparkling gruner in Australia. For those unfamiliar with the variety, gruner veltliner is a crisp, aromatic and very tasty white wine from Austria, that is starting to become more common in Australia. But a sparkling? Absolutely, and a ridiculously easy drinking one at that, with melons and pear flavours. comynsandco.com.au
Usher Tinkler La Volpe Prosecco, 2023 ($38)
Prosecco isn't as complex as Champagne, but is overwhelmingly fresh, bright and easy drinking. Just like this. The spritzy burst of bubbles leads to apple and pear flavours, with some citrus support. A good one to start the family gathering or for a backyard barbecue. ushertinklerwines.com
If there's not something here to take your fancy, you're hard to please.
Whoever's buying your Secret Santa will be shaking in their boots.
