It was eight years ago that Richie Harkham dipped his toe into the world of food at his DeBeyers Road boutique winery in Pokolbin, in the Hunter Valley.
He called it PopUp Restaurant, and it was a successful experiment despite the limitations of the building.
At the time, the Newcastle Herald review said, "fresh, local and fun. A Latino surprise in the heart of the Hunter... it's one of those places that may hold your attention for much longer than you anticipate."
And now, the restaurant is back to stay.
"The PopUp up was the tester," owner and winemaker Harkham says. "All this is an extension of that, in a much, much nicer way."
The restaurant design was led by Jessica Enander Dunne, emphasising earthy materials and an interior that takes advantage of gorgeous views of the Brokenback range with a wall featuring floor-to-ceiling windows that can be opened, and a feature fireplace to take away the winter chill.
The menu, made in consultation with Sydney restaurateur Marco Ambrosino and head chef Shaun Nash, is simple but exact, focusing on share foods.
"The restaurant is themed around my favourite foods," Harkham says.
"We have done so many food trials to get this food absolutely perfect, and a lot of it has been thanks to Marco."
Harkham points out that his winery is rated number one in the Hunter Valley on Tripadvisor, with more than 500 five-star reviews.
"People love coming to us for the relaxed, fun atmosphere," he says. "This is just an extension, into the restaurant. Lovely fun, relaxed vibe with super tasty foods, more shared foods - and who doesn't love Italian food?"
It's not complicated: five starters, four pastas, four pizzas, three mains, four sides, three desserts plus cheese plates.
And like always with Harkham, there's a welcome surprise: a caviar cart.
There are 14 featured cocktails - also drawn from Harkham's favourites - including an espresso martini that includes his own chocolate liqueur as an ingredient.
The wine list was also curated by Harkham, with many personal favourites from the Hunter, like Usher Tinkler prosecco and pinot noir, Tyrrell's Vat 1 semillon, Angus Vinden's chenin blanc, Lake's Folly chardonnay.
And, what Harkham calls "a bunch of my favourite rare cult wines from around the world", including French wines from Cecile Tremblay, Thierry Glantenay and Christian Knott at Domaine Dandelion.
Of course, the 2023 vintage of Harkham's own range of wines will be available in the restaurant and can be bought for take away as well.
Harkham, who just turned 45, celebrates 20 years in the Hunter Valley in 2025. From the start, he made natural, organic wines, which have become fashionable over the past two decades.
"I started in 2005. Everyone is saying to me now it's a really tough time to open up a cellar door and a restaurant," he says.
"But also in 2013 when I opened my cellar door, it was a very, very tough time. My Dad was saying 'Don't do it, don't do it.' I persisted.
"On the first day, no one turned up. I took $10 notes on the second day, a Sunday, and I waited outside Roche Estate, which back then was Poole's Rock, and as people were pulling up, I stopped their cars and asked them what their name was, and I'd write it on the $10 note, and I'd say, 'If you come to my cellar door and don't have the best tasting of your life, this $10 note is yours'.
"I literally built it up person by person by person by person. Now, we are number one on Tripadvisor for the whole Hunter Valley.
"And I don't think there is ever a great time to do things, but you can't stop living your dreams and what you really want to do. Otherwise, nothing will really ever happen, there is no time that is perfect."
