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Evening Standard
Evening Standard
Lifestyle
Ped Millichamp

Guernsey destination guide: what to do, eat and where to stay

The jewel in the Bailiwick crown and one of the Channel Islands just off the French coast, Guernsey offers the ideal destination for couples or families looking to get away from it all without the hassle of a long-haul flight. In fact, you can be there within the hour from London Gatwick and with its Normandy architectural heritage, balmy weather and narrow cobbled lanes you’d be forgiven for thinking you’re in the Med. Think Cornish village meets Normandy France. Bliss.

Beautiful beaches and secluded coves are peppered around the perimeter of the island and offer crystal clear turquoise waters ideal for wild swimming or kayaking adventures. Too strenuous? Just kick back on the golden sands and soak in the sun – we won’t judge you.

But there is more to Guernsey than just stunning coastline views – from exploring historical landmarks to hopping over to neighbouring islands, you can create the idyllic holiday itinerary that completely evolves each day taking in culture, heritage, adventure, fine cuisine and lashings of Guernsey ice cream.

What to see and do

Coastal walks and forts

(Visit Guernsey)

Guernsey’s coastline offers the most breathtaking views imaginable – it’s no wonder Renoir painted some of his most famous masterpieces here. Head along the cliff path from St Peters Port to Fermain Bay – one of the island’s most beautiful beaches – for the most Insta-friendly hidden bay views. If you have a car, make sure you explore the coastal fortifications that have defended Guernsey from invasion for thousands of years.

Victor Hugo’s Hauteville House

The world famous Parisian poet and author Victor Hugo set up residence in St Peters Port in 1855. Having declared Guernsey as ‘the rock of hospitality and freedom,’ he spent his fifteen years in exile living perhaps his most productive and creative writing period and went on to pen Les Miserables here. His eclectic house is covered in decadent tapestries and wood-carved paneling that Hugo collected during his time there and is immaculately preserved by the City of Paris. Open for tours and a must for literary lovers or those of us (me!) who love a good nosey around someone’s house. visitguernsey.com

German underground hospital and other wartime sites

(Visit Guernsey)

The military ‘Occupation’ between 1940 and 1945 when Nazi Germany took control of the island in pursuit of their intended capture of England changed the landscape of Guernsey and their liberation is strongly celebrated still to this day. Make no mistake, Guernsey doesn’t shy away from its past and the remnants of the occupation on the island serve as a reminder of just what the islanders endured during the war and the resilience they showed. Meticulously preserved and open for tours is the German Underground Hospital. As you walk along the dark and damp corridors covered in German signage, you can almost sense the wartime soldiers walking behind you. Take a tour with Tours of Guernsey for an in-depth guide and make sure you also visit Batterie Mirus – the remains of four naval gun points with an eerie underground bunker to explore. toursofguernsey.com

Beaches, coves and soaking in the vitamin sea

If you’re more of a beach bum, Guernsey offers an embarrassment of riches when it comes to hideaway coves and sandy coastline beaches with crystal-clear waters so you can relax and soak in the sun. Head to Cobo or Petit Bot for dreamy hidden gems (but don’t tell the locals I told you). Feeling a little more energetic? Then hire a paddleboard or kayak to explore the coves in style as you glide over the shimmering sea. If you’re up for a little more adventure, we strongly recommend the coasteering excursions with Outdoor Guernsey – the ultimate adrenalin-fuelled activity that will have you climbing over rocks and jumping into the blue sea below… 25ft was my limit. I double dare you… outdoorguernsey.gg

(Visit Guernsey)

The Little Chapel

If there is one place to visit, this pint-sized labour of love is a must. Completed in 1923 by a French padre, and covered in seashells, glass, pebbles and broken china, it’s the most quirky, charming and adorable miniature building outside of Alice in Wonderland. You’ll feel compelled to take a moment to reflect or light a candle regardless of your faith. A truly moving experience.

Sark and Herm

A short ferry hop from Guernsey and you’ll be skipping back in time by visiting the more tranquil island of Sark. As there are no cars on the island (you may see the odd tractor and horse and cart though), the best way to explore Sark is by bike. We recommend a guided tour [Soo Wellfair Tours] by a highly-knowledgeable local to soak in the history of the island and its famous inhabitants such as the very staunch Sibyl Hathaway. Visit the beautiful La Seigneurie Gardens or watch the Caragh chocolates being handmade before trying some for yourself. If you’re feeling brave you can walk over La Coupee – a narrow handmade causeway that connects the main island to ‘Little Sark’. The clifftop views are stunning and the small beach coves offer the perfect oasis to take time out from everything.

(Visit Guernsey)

With barely any air pollution and no street lights, the night sky is lit up with stars and in some places you can even see the Milky Way in all its glory (head to the Observatory for the optimal view).

Herm is the smaller of the two and the Island Rib Voyage boat rides from Guernsey are a great way to view this stunning island – you may even spot a seal or guillemot on your way if you’re lucky.

Channel Islands Pride, September 3

(Jackson Chambers Photography)

Celebrating the 50th year since the UK held its first Pride parade in 1972, the 70s-themed Guernsey Pride promises to be bigger and prouder than ever. The main event is on September 3 at Candie Gardens and will be packed with unicorn races, stalls, music and entertainment before the Pride March moves on through the town towards Market Square led by a large 50-metre rainbow flag, floats and samba bands for more live music (tribute act P!nk, local band Element 6 and headliners The Freemasons are all lined up). Guest appearances from Ru Paul’s Drag Race UK’s Tia Kofi and winner Lawrence Chaney, plus Liberate’s LGBTQ+ choir ‘Rainbow Chorus’ performing will add to the colourful celebrations. There will be something for everyone – young and old and with a mission to be as inclusive as ever. And everything on the day is free so no one will miss out.

Radio One DJ Dean McCollough and Lawrence Chaney will ensure the official Pride after party goes off with a bang so make sure you book your ticket. The Official Pride Pool Party is guaranteed to be the perfect excuse to carry on the celebrations the following day.

For more information and tickets to Guernsey Pride, visit the social media channels on Facebook or Instagram.

Where to stay

Bella Luce Hotel

(Visit Guernsey - Bella Luce Hotel)

This quaint Norman manor house is set in the heart of Guernsey and offers one of the most delightful stays on the island. Surrounded by narrow roads and tranquility, you’ll soon forget about your daily grind and relax into a stress-free pace of life. Each room is uniquely designed and every care is taken to ensure you have the most enchanting stay – from the morning breakfast to a visit to the award-winning on-site gin distillery in the evening, you’ll be able to kick back and unwind. What’s more, you can also take a dip in the pool or book yourself in to the luxurious Bella Spa & Boutique for a truly amazing pampering experience. Rooms from £186; bellalucehotel.com

Where to eat & drink

Nineteen Bar & Grill

From the freshest of seafood to the most succulent steaks, Nineteen Bar & Grill is set on one of Guernsey’s finest golf courses and offers a relaxed yet vibrant atmosphere. Open to the public, there’s no need to bother with the 18 holes beforehand – just make a swing for the 19th hole, as they say. The Pirates Crazy Golf course is the perfect aperitive or, if you’re feeling a little more energetic, work your way through a bucket of balls on the driving range afterwards.nineteen.gg

Stocks Sark Island Hotel & Restaurant

(Visit Guernsey)

‘Dip & Dine’ is a *thing* on the island and there’s no better destination than Stocks to kick back poolside and enjoy the most delectable of meals. Nestled in a wooded valley in the heart of Sark, the food is sourced from local fishermen and farmers and the hotel’s very own kitchen gardens. Don’t want to leave? Just book yourself in to one of their rustic-chic rooms and make use of their horse and carriage. It really doesn’t get better than this. stockshotel.com

Moulin Huet Tearooms

As you descend down to Moulin Huet Bay (part of the Renoir Trail route), you’ll stumble across a quaint tearoom with stunning views (if they were good enough for Renoir…). Enjoy a locally-caught crab sandwich and a cream tea whilst you contemplate whipping out the watercolour paints. visitguernsey.com

Good Rebel

This newly-opened vibrant dining destination serving light bites, breakfast, brunch and lunch is in the heart of Admiral Park, just north of St Peters Port and offers a laid back atmosphere and funky interior design. Check out the curated cocktail menu to wash down your brunch (well, you are on holiday). goodrebel.gg

How to get there

Daily flights with Guernsey’s airline Aurigny from London Gatwick will get you there within 40 minutes or you may want to take the Condor Ferries from Poole or Portsmouth with the added bonus of taking your car which is perfect for exploring the length and breadth of Guernsey. Be warned though, whilst they do drive on the left (phew!), the roads are fairly narrow so take your time and abide by the local rules. Parking is free on the island but you’ll need a parking timer with you.

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