Across most of the northern hemisphere, the grape harvest finished months ago. But in a small vineyard not far from Stockholm, in temperatures of -8C and 15cm of snow, it’s only just begun.
“It’s perfect,” said Göran Amnegård, whose Blaxsta winery claims to be one of the world’s most northerly vineyards, as they started the harvest last week.
When he planted his first grapes 22 years ago it was one of Sweden’s only commercial wineries. Now it is one of a growing number in the Nordic country that experts predict is on its way to becoming a wine destination.
Amnegård’s vidal blanc grapes get up to 23 hours of daylight in the peak of summer before being turned into his award-winning ice wine, which he sells to Michelin-starred restaurants. “We have one of the most unique terroir, soil, in the world,” he said.
While comparatively small at 150 hectares, Sweden’s vineyards have expanded by 50% in the last two years. Within five years they are expected to more than double in size. Long term, it is predicted they could grow to 10,000 hectares and become a new billion euro industry.
Domestic sales of Swedish wine have almost doubled in the last five years. Systembolaget, the government-owned chain of off-licences with a monopoly on selling alcoholic drinks with strength above 3.5%, said sales have risen from 19,388 litres in 2017 to 34,495 litres this year to 30 November. While production is still very small scale, the retailer said quantity, quality and customer interest is growing.
Experts said global heating and the cultivation of new grape varieties are among the factors driving Swedish wine production. The main varieties grown in Sweden are solaris, a white grape first released in 1975 by the Freiburg Wine Institute in south-west Germany, and rondo, for red wine.
Lotta Nordmark, a researcher at the Swedish University of Agricultural Sciences, said wine styles have mostly been white, sparkling and rosé but that there is also potential for making orange wines.
Vital to the winegrowing success will be the use of disease-resistant grape varieties, sustainable cultivation systems and the ability to experiment without the restrictions of appellations, said Nordmark.
“Wine connoisseurs are interested in Swedish wines because the grapes have a long development period, high acidity that builds an interesting sensory palette and already now Swedish wines are gaining ground in international wine-tasting competitions.”
Nordic Vineyards, which sells Scandinavian wines online, said most of its products are bought by people from within the region, but that it is increasingly getting requests from across Europe and Asia, particularly Japan.
Felix Åhrberg, winemaker at Kullabergs Vingård in Skåne, and secretary of the Swedish Industry Association for Oenology and Viticulture (SBOV), said Swedish wine is being “very well received” but makers have “just started to scratch the surface”.
“I believe this really is the time,” he said, adding that it is going in a similar direction to British sparkling wine. “The potential will be 10,000 hectares, so 4,000 hectares smaller than in Switzerland. It would be a new billion euro industry in Sweden with wine tourism.”
Sveneric Svensson, chair of Svenskt Vin (Swedish Wine), said although the solaris grape was “born in Freiberg … it found its home here because it ripens in a shorter time.”
He added: “People are used to drinking chablis or sauvignon blanc, but when they hear solaris they say ‘what is this?’ But they should try it. It’s very good, similar to sauvignon blanc.”
Swedish wine journalist Mikael Mölstad said in 20 years winegrowing largely in the south of the country, in Skåne, has gone from “a curiosity” to a scene with serious potential, with viticulturists and wine makers coming from abroad. “Today, Sweden, as England did 15-20 years ago, has potential to compete with wine quality in respected wine countries in Europe.”
But the current growth is just the beginning. “There has to be a belief from politicians and authorities to determine wine production as a future agricultural business for Sweden. With this there will be larger investments made with venture capital needed to upscale the business.”
While Sweden has some way to catch up with England, it has huge potential, he said. “With climate change and the pure and, in comparison, cheap land, why not? There is an interest from wine producers in Europe to secure land in Sweden for future production.”
