I have a core caponata memory, and it doesn’t take place in Italy. It was during my first visit to the Globe theatre in London, which all felt very magical: Shakespeare, an open-air theatre, plus an open-air foyer with a huge, paella-style pan of freshly stewing caponata. I instantly regretted going for a substandard meal beforehand, because in this pan were the glossiest, sweetest-smelling aubergines (with a hint of sour), finished with celery, pine nuts and all the gubbins – I still regret not pushing through the fullness barrier and ordering a portion. Since then, I’ve eaten wonderful caponata and it remains one of my favourite Italian dishes. Here, I’ve incorporated the essence of it into a weeknight orzotto.
