It’s almost disrespectful to call this a salad, because it is so many things: a salad, a side dish, even a main course. When sweet potato is cooked this way – sliced into chunky discs before roasting, with peanuts and a little brown sugar added in the later stages – it packs a punch; and with a spicy, sweet, creamy dressing, it ticks all the boxes for me. It keeps well, and can be made ahead and dressed at the very last minute, so is ideal picnic material.