With the economy on the blink and AI coming for everyone’s jobs, perhaps it’s no surprise the booze-free movement has been gaining momentum. The days of rolling into work bleary-eyed are long gone — we simply can’t afford the hangover.
And yet, though headaches may be out, escapism, social connection and having a laugh are still very much in. The moderation movement is still evolving, as the “low” half of the “no and low” category continues to grow. It seems more and more of us are giving the “less but better” thing a go, and while that may mean forgoing lunchtime pints in favour of an evening Negroni for some, for others it’s about entirely new alternatives.
Enter the new era of drinking: mood-boosting blends driven by a wave of alternative spirits and beers. Crafted with botanicals, adaptogens, nootropics and neurotransmitter-targeting compounds, these beverages promise everything from calm, clarity and focus to more energy, increased sociability, better sleep and even a few (legal) semi-psychedelic highs.It’s a category known as “functional drinks”, where the benefits take centre stage.
“Most of the focus so far has been about mimicking flavour, as opposed to the sensory experience of alcohol itself,” says Collider drinks founder Harry Cooke. “With thousands of compounds out there that are well studied for their mood-boosting effects, it seemed obvious to try to emulate that experience.”
The result? “I wouldn’t be surprised to see over half the non-alcoholic offerings on the market contain some sort of functional component within five years.”
It’s time to get on board, then, even if it’s worth pointing out that some of these “mood-boosting” claims are just that — claims.
“While some scientific studies suggest positive effects on mood and energy levels from specific plant compounds, such as theobromine (found in cacao beans), caffeine and myrcene (found in hops and cannabis), there is a noticeable gap in peer-reviewed research for some plants widely used in Eastern medicine,” says Dr Shelini Surendran, the international associate dean at the University of Surrey’s Faculty of Health and Medical Sciences. “It’s possible that they could hold the key to improving memory, cognitive function, or stress reduction — but further research is needed to understand their full benefits or side effects.”
But, as a booze journo who essentially drinks for a living, I was keen to find out if there was any truth in the drinks promising all of the fun but none of the consequences. Let’s pour them out.
Three Spirit
Early adopters of the adaptogen game — adaptogens being herbs and plant extracts that are said to reduce stress and fatigue — Three Spirit (from £24.99, threespiritdrinks.com) launched in 2018. Co-founder Dash Lilley, explains: “We looked at why people drink alcohol in the first place, and to simplify, it is one of three core reasons: as a pick me up, as a social lubricant, and to wind down.”The Livener, The Social Elixir and The Nightcap are each infused with various plants, mushrooms and things like guayusa, schisandra (magnolia vines), lion’s mane (the fungi) and cacao.
“We researched active plant compounds affecting pleasure and reward receptors in the nervous system, and then worked with phytochemists and ethnobiologists to uncover the combinations for maximum effect,” says Lilley.
The Livener, also powered by natural caffeine, suggests “lively, euphoric vibes”. My booze tolerance may be high, but caffeine not so. I decided to ditch my morning coffee and try this one at my desk, to a few raised eyebrows at the clinking of ice in my glass. “It’s an alcohol-free functional spirit alternative,” I gurgle, undoubtedly boosting my popularity as well as my mood.A surprisingly palatable medley of fruity redcurrant, sweet-but-not too sweet, with some bitterness, I sipped and waited for euphoria, which arrived in the form of a slightly clenched jaw and possibly dilated pupils. In hindsight, I probably should have tested something designed for “lively” alcohol occasions in a dark warehouse rather than behind the glare of a screen. Next time.
The Social Elixir promises “blissful, wavy vibes”, via a bittersweet herbal elixir, a bit like a rich, medicinal cola. Possibly not for everyone, but if the half-empty bottle is anything to go by, it’s one for me. While I’ve taken to glugging it neat over ice, it mixes nicely with ginger beer, too. As for the “vibes”, while battling from pre-drinks to a dinner, during commuter-crush hour, I almost did the unimaginable and smiled at a stranger. Powerful stuff.
Rating: 8/10
Sentia
Professor David Nutt is a renowned neuropsychopharmacologist and cult figure in the world of psychedelics. Decades of research on the effects of alcohol, coupled with actual knowledge on the inner workings of our grey matter, led him to the development of Sentia (from £29.50, sentiaspirits.com). It’s designed to work with gamma-aminobutyric acid (GABA) in the brain, a neurotransmitter that acts as a natural tranquilliser, calming the brain and the body’s central nervous system. The brand says GABA receptors trigger “those feelings of lightness and relaxation” after a couple of drinks — that “ahh” feeling of alcohol. Sentia claims to boost the natural release of GABA in your brain, so you can get said “ahh” without the day-after “oof”.
Gaba Black and Gaba Red promote focus and conviviality, and listed on the Black bottle are tasting notes of spiced pepper, an earthy body and a smoky, bitter finish. I find this one more challenging. Intensely medicinal — a bit TCP. Bitter green leaves join equally bitter notes of bark, cloves, black pepper. I could get used to the taste if it delivered the booze-adjacent buzz it promises. But sitting around waiting to feel a hit from something designed to capture a light feeling of relaxation is tricky. Was I feeling chipper because it was a Friday night, or because my GABA receptors were firing? Who could say, but at least I didn’t have a hangover the next day.
Rating: 7/10
Collider
Lion’s mane is brewing up in beers too, infused within Collider’s recently released non-alcoholic Unwind Lager and Unwind Session Pale (from £27 for 12, drinkcollider.com). As far as functional fungus goes, lion’s mane seems to be king of the pride — touted as being able to enhance cognitive function, boost thinking speed and memory, help with concentration and focus, and reduce inflammation. Perhaps.
At 0.5 per cent, the lager is crisp and fresh, it’s got that pleasant bite that makes beer taste like beer, and some subtle fruity flavours. I’d happily reach for it as a non-alcoholic alternative, even without the mood-manipulating claims, but after a couple of drinks I’m sure I feel relaxed. Perhaps not the best thing to serve to get the party started, but a nice alternative for lazy summer days.
Rating: 8/10
Amass
Morgan McLachlan is the “punk rock” distiller of Amass Drinks (from £43.50, amass.com). Experimenting with plants, herbs and spices, she’s behind the Riverine distilled non-alcoholic spirit and a dry gin, with 29 botanicals. Between the two are various roots, peels, barks and herbs, along with cacao, lion’s mane, reishi, ashwagandha, sarsaparilla, liquorice… The website’s botanical glossary tells me about what I’ve been ingesting. Ashwagandha, I read, is both an adaptogen, which “helps the body adapt to and cope with stress”, and a nootropic, thought to “enhance cognitive function, improving memory, creativity, concentration and even motivation.” You get the idea.The alcohol-free Riverine in particular is complex, herbal, light, fresh. I ponder whether my creativity and concentration feel enhanced, if I glow with youthful vitality. I feel something like a sense of purity, righteous sobriety and — is that the urge to dress entirely in linen?
Rating: 7/10
G Spot
Gillian Anderson’s G Spot (from £16.50 for six, thisisgspot.com)? Of course it’s had people talking. Launching it last year, Anderson positioned this one as an alternative to her “serious soft drink habit”, saying: “I know sugar and caffeine are not good for me, but I haven’t found an alternative that has the same effect.” This one is apparently teeming with adaptogens and nootropics, and caffeine free and low in calories. There are four varieties, named for their effect: Soothe, Protect, Lift and Arouse. The latter two seem closest to what a proper drink is for. Arouse is the latest, so I pour one, finding a mix of passionfruit, pineapple and dragonfruit, with a hit of habanero. I can’t admit to being aroused, but the spice makes me feel perkier. But it passes; a tequila shot this is not. Could — gasp — this all be a cynical marketing ploy from a star of Sex Education?
Rating: 6.5/10
Conclusion
After a few weeks of sipping through the selection, I’m certainly not feeling bad. My mood feels light, energy levels are sprightly, and the 8am starts have been easier — even the pre-dawn cycles through the rain haven’t dampened the spirits. But who’s to say that it’s down to the l-theanine flowing through my veins and not a by-product of drinking less alcohol? And with little regulation, how do I know it’s safe to mix these things? Can one have too much ashwagandha in the blood? Can you be too blissful?
Either way, it’s a category that’s not slowing down. Amass recently launched De Soi in the US, a “sparkling, non-alc apéritif with adaptogens” neatly packaged in bubblegum-coloured cans, co-owned by Katy Perry. The GOOP-ification of drinking continues in Bella Hadid’s Kin Euphorics, blending adaptogens, nootropics and serotonin-boosters like 5-HTP to “revolutionise the future of social drinking”. The US has Hiyo, too, doing much the same. Functional drinks seem bigger over there.
But is it just a matter of time for the UK? And is this the beginning of the end for the party as we know it? Maybe, maybe not. As Three Spirit’s Dash Lilley says: “The ritual and experience of gathering for a drink is a fundamental human pleasure — one shown to have invaluable benefits for mental wellbeing.”
